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Re: 5 amp fuse continues to blow on control board for...
Wouldn't trip during heating if on a/c side, could test by removing a/c wire from y. If does it during both seasons then I am guessing that your red wire to r terminal is shorting somewhere if not it would only happen in a/c if in outside wires, y wire or g wire. would pop only in heat if w wire was bad. since both either r wire or bad board.
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With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.
If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.
If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,
Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.
If this is the first time unit has been fired up, you likely have air in the lines to purge first. Also make sure the gas supply is on/open. and that if there is a fuse present on the control board (likely a 3 Amp fuse) make sure it has not blown (which can happen simply by close proximity lightning strikes.)
Letting the unit go through the ignition sequence several times will purge the line. If furnace "locks out" on third start attempt, shut it off and start cycling it again until the furnace comes on..
This assumes the installation was checked for leaks initially.
There is a 3 or 5 amp fuse on the control board inside the air handler. Disconnect power to the air handler,locate the fuse and replace it with a good fuse. The fuse is the same type used in automobiles. You can purchase them at a auto parts store. After replacing and turning on the power there will be a 5 minute delay before the board and thermostat energize. After 5 minutes set the thermostat for you heat or ac function. If the new fuse blows a complete diagnostic must be done to the system.
It could be that it is not charged correctly. Check the insulated copper
line outside if it is sweating and the condensor is discharging hot air, then the ac is doing all that it can. Check the evaporator inside to see
if the drain has condensate coming out of it.
Getting the heat out of the attic is a good idea, but you must have enough make-up air in the attic for the fan. If you do not have enough
make up air, it will start to draw air from inside the house. One way to check this is if you have a gas water heater and or furnace. If you put
a flame by the exhaust pipe in the basement and it blows it out, then you now have a backdraft problem.
Run the AC withoutthe fan, my real guess is the unit is not properly
charged or you do not have a big enough AC unit.
Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..
inside unit has fan control relay , either on control board or can be separate ,except for the 24 volt transformer and the t-stat the units operate separately concentrate totally on the inside unit this is where the problem lies
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