Bypass the static pressure lockout switch. If it works, replace the static pressure switch, or the combustion blower motor if its part of the sensor switch.
There are a couple things you can try...
1. On your draft inducer, follow the rubber hose to the vacuum / pressure switch. Pull the hose off of the switch and blow through it... if your unable to, the hole is plugged at the inducer
connection and needs unplugged... if you can, put the hose back on the switch and try again, it is possible that the hole was slightly plugged but clear now...
2. Pull the hose off of the inducer motor and slightly blow into it or pull a slight vacuum on it... if it doesn't hold the pressure or vacuum, the diaphragm inside has a hole and entire switch needs to be replaced
SOURCE: draft fan keeps on running after furnace shuts
That sounds pretty normal for most furnace/heater products. They run the heating element with fan for a cycle then after the heater reaches temperature it will shut off and the fan will continue to run to cool the element and to circulate the heat that it produced. If you want the manual for this product it looks like you can get it here: http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/ex/product/headline/m/Coleman%2BEvcon/d/furnace/p/DGATO75BDC
SOURCE: i have a coleman evcon gas furnace in a 95 trailer
Most Coleman units in a trailer dont have a draft fan. Are you talking about the fan that blows air through the floor registers? If yes, then you will probably need a new fan/limit control. If you do have a draft motor, you would probably need a new circuit board or draft fan relay.
SOURCE: I have a Rudd furnace
Well first you want to verify that there is gas pressure coming from the connector. Turn off the valve and disconnect the connector. Then turn on the valve for 1 second and back off. You should get plenty of gas flow. Be careful doing this!. Then inspect the opening at the adapter to the control. There is a screen inside there. Make sure the screen is clear(not plugged with pipe dope,lint ect). When the igniter reaches the 2200 degrees you should hear the gas solenoid valve click open releasing gas. If you hear it click and no gas is released you will need to inspect the burner orfices. The orfice has an extremely small hole and there is a posibillity that they are plugged with debris. You will need to use a very small wire(like a tie strap) and insert it into each hole and see if there is anything in the orfice. If you do not hear the gas valve click then it might not be getting the signal it needs due to a weak igniter or flame rectification sensor. Does your furnace have a stand-by pilot that is lit by the hot surface igniter or does the igniter directly light the burner assembly?
SOURCE: I have a Ducane MPGA100B4B gas furnace. The
Hello, sounds like the limit switch is opening on the furnace.Usually when a furnace goes off on its high limit is becuase the airflow is being restricted making the furnace overheat. a limit switch is there to protect the furnaace from overheating, most cuases are either dirt or the blower motor not running up to speed, anything that cuts down on the airflow will cause the high limt switch to open.
1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
Please leave feedback... Thanks...
1.
Thermostat calls for heat.
2.
Draft inducer motor starts.
3.
Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the
negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and
closes.
4.
Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small
metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white
porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8
to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no
ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back
off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over
again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution:You probably need to
purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your
ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not
touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not
visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a
limit, rollout switch problem.The furnace's control board
might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace
lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then
you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You
might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will
work well after cleaning.
1.
Thermostat calls for heat.
2.
Draft inducer motor starts.
3.
Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the
negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and
closes.
4.
Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small
metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white
porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8
to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no
ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back
off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over
again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution:You probably need to
purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your
ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not
touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not
visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a
limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board
might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor.If your furnace
lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then
you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You
might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will
work well after cleaning.
1.
Thermostat calls for heat.
2.
Draft inducer motor starts.
3.
Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the
negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and
closes.
4.
Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small
metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white
porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8
to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no
ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch (or circuit breaker ) back
off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over
again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution:You probably need to
purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your
ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not
touch the ignitor with your bare hands (use gloves). If you do not
visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a
limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board
might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace
lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then
you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You
might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will
work well after cleaning.
1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or
rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by
the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute
before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did
not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about
1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops
with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your
furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition
until you turn your power switch back off and on
again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the
gas.
Solution: You
probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you
inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure
you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If
you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board
problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's
control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If
your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right
back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or
steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be
cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or
rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by
the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute
before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did
not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about
1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops
with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your
furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition
until you turn your power switch back off and on
again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the
gas.
Solution: You
probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you
inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure
you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If
you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board
problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's
control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If
your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right
back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or
steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be
cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or
rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by
the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute
before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did
not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about
1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops
with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your
furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition
until you turn your power switch back off and on
again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the
gas.
Solution: You
probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you
inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure
you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If
you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board
problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's
control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If
your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right
back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or
steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be
cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or
rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by
the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute
before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did
not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about
1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops
with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your
furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition
until you turn your power switch back off and on
again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the
gas.
Solution: You
probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you
inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure
you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If
you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board
problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout
switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's
control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If
your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right
back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or
steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be
cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
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