Check the data. If it should have a 20 amp fuse and it blows or trips a circuit breaker you probably have a faulty element. Try disconnecting each element in turn,
SOURCE: Fuses keep blowing out
In case it's still helpful, I'll inject a little sanity into the replies.
If the fuse blows as soon as you hit Start, it's probably a shorted high-voltage capacitor. That's usually economical to repair.
If the fuse blows a few seconds after you hit Start, it's probably a shorting high-voltage transformer. That's usually not economical to repair.
It's not radiation (non-ionizing RF by the way) that's the hazard, it's the voltages.
SOURCE: Microwave oven blowing 20 amp ceramic fuse
Chances are if the varistor fails, it fails drastically causing a short circuit across the supply. It will sit across the supply (it will look like a thick ceramic capacitor) and you can check for continuity after isolating that at one end. If it shows low resistance (it should show almost open circuit with a Digital meter), replace it.
It need not be the culprit. If you are familiar working with High voltage circuits ( they are lethal inside a microwave ovens as the current capability is high here), you can discharge the doubler capacitor and isolate the high voltage diode to check for shorts in the HT area.
SOURCE: HOW TO REPLACE BLOWN FUSE
Look for a reset button on the back--push to reset. If trips again, unit has probable short.
SOURCE: my microwave oven keeps tripping the circuit
If a fuse inside had blown, that would definitely reduce the current flow rather than trip the breaker.
I have replaced several breakers over the years; they no longer last forever.
Try your Amana on a different circuit, not in the kitchen; if that other circuit likes the oven, the breaker is bad.
If the alternate circuit breaker also trips, then you have not a blown fuse in the Amana but rather a shorted component inside and repairing the oven will likely cost about the same as replacing it.
SOURCE: keeps blowing 20 amp cermaic fuse when door is
I finally was able to fix similar problem. The "primary" door switch (top switch) had a burned contact inside the switch body, as well as burned surrounding plastic. It would no longer "click" and tended to stay in "closed" position. [The switch is a "normally open" design (NO).] When this occurs and the door is opened, the "monitor" switch causes the fuse to blow out. GE wants $50 for this part. However, I was able to find a universal design of microswitch at Fry's Electronics. It had the same rating (15 amp at 250 volts), same body size, both NO and NC terminals, but with a lever arm which I had to remove by opening the case. Cost was $2.47 + tax. (PRICELESS!). It works well now.. I also had to buy a set of Torx driver bits for tamperproof screws to be able to remove the oven cover. (The hole in the end of the bit goes over the tamperproof pin of the screw). NOTE: I believe this problem occurs from opening the microwave door before the cooking is finished (without either pushing "pause" or "clear/off" buttons). This can cause a momentary "arc" between the switch contacts which, over time, will pit and burn the switch
I also viewed a YouTube video which was helpful at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsWTCnACqdY
Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.
The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.
To isolate your problem:
1.
Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .
2.
If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:
2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances
2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)
2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)
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