I have a 2019 Toyota sienna se and I wanna install an aftermarket amp and sub but need to install a high and low converter but does any body know where can I get the diagram so I can find the speakers wires and the remote wire. Thanks

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Did you clean it properly both sides, fully disconnect it? You need to do a Throttle Body Re-learn.

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Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.

Ccheck the 3 fuses that cover Entertainment and Audio

https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-sienna-xl30-2011-2018-fuses

https://www.google.com/search?q=2019+Toyota+Sienna.+My+screen+says+%22Loading%22

..

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That sounds like you have Body Control Module issues. You need a good auto-electrician with a $5.000 professional grade scan tool computer. It will contact and interrogate all the modules.

yes, buy a hi/low converter like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-LEVEL-INPUT-ADAPTER-HI-LOW-ADAPTER-AMP-INSTALLATION-/200738024366?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item2ebceb2bae&vxp=mtr

that connects to a speaker you have and gives you RCA connections for you amp. follow the diagram included in your purchase of your hi/lo converter.

ok..well theres a lot of question in there, lemme take a shot at it.

the hi/low switch explained: the hi/low switch tells the amp what signal voltage is being delivered to the amp...hi-power (4-15volts) or low-power(micro-volts). Your aftermarket head unit had what are called pre-outs (or preAmp outs) meaning the source signal (your music) is not amplified before being delivered to the amplifier...sooo...your amplifier setting for your aftermarket radio would be 'low' to tell the amp that the music source being sent to it is low-voltage.

Typically a manufacturers radio will not have pre-outs, they will be amplified by the radios internal amp to anywhere from 4volts on up, and you need to tell your jl audio amp that the source music being supplied is 'hi' voltage.

soo...of course...if you are sending 10volts to the amplifier and tell it that your sending micro-volts (low setting) your amp will over-amplify the signal and thus the overwhelming bass you experienced.

You would send high as well as low to the sub and unless the sub had a built in crossover it COULD get muddy sounding. The specs SEEM to indicate the 118 DOES have a low frequency crossover so it SHOULD be OK... How would it sound? An 18 inch sub normally adds to the sound of a system... You MAY need to PAN over to send more power to the one side with the extra load on one side. Often people use two sub's... one for each side so it is balanced.

FYI - all Toyota parts are proprietary you need to buy the OEM PARTS. Most of the times I go to the Toyota dealership and try to make a deal with the parts sales person. You would be amazed that most of them will give you a nice price. Just let them know how much is that aftermarket price. Most of the times they will match the aftermarket part sell. s price. Or you could visit www.usatoyotaparts.com for a better price... I hope this helps

The one you have will work but an aftermarket one would work better. You will get more output out of an aftermarket deck.

After about 100K + miles the idle air control valve (IAC) begins to collect carbon deposits that interfere with the movement of the spring-loaded valve. You will not be able to clean this without removal and dissembly of the IAC body. Use an emory cloth or fine sandpaper to remove the build up around the valve. This should free it up to rotate without binding. This is a temporary fix, of course, and will either require cleaning again or replacement of the valve. Getting to the IAC requires removal of most of the intake upto, but not including, the intake manifold. Total time is approximately 3-4 hours, but worth it. Good luck, and I hope this helps.

I ran into a similar problem installing a sustem in a Mazda RX8. He had BOSE speakers which operate at a different range. We had to purchase the Rockford 3sixty.