I have MB quart reference rxe 216 crossover and need to know how to hook up my speakers and tweeters to it

Looking at the schematic provided by Maxxsonics, I see what the OP's problem is:
The manual shows one polarity on the sketch of the crossover's input terminals, yet the schematic below it shows the complete opposite polarity!
The output is correct.
Before you turn your crossover (or amp) into a smoke-generator, I suggest:
Double check your actual tweeter's input for labelled, silk-screened or embossed polarity and channel (Wf/Tw) markings, as manual may have errors on either drawing (top) or schematic (bottom).
If in doubt, try this:
With a DMM on ohms scale, and [font color="red"]Power Off[/font], from ground (chassis) to first input terminal, note down resistance.
Repeat ground to 2, Gnd to 3, Gnd to 4, all INputs..
The low readings should be negative (aka shielded screen or common GND).
However, the DMM test won't tell you which is Woofer or Tweeter.
Alternatively, you could undo the X-over shell, then trace the terminals to the board.
Negatives should go to ground (unless it's isolated in circuit).
To confirm which is yo 'Wofaah' and 'Tweetah' input, (shell and power back on), touch 2 mono wires from a small output (earphone of CD player, cassette, trannie radio etc) to each input and listen for Woofer bass and Tweeter treble difference.
Hope this helps you.

Product MPN MPN RTC 19 Key Features Car Speaker Type Component Car Speaker Function Tweeter Size 1" Nominal Power Handling 70 Watt RMS Technical Features Peak Power Handling 130 Watt Frequency Response 2500 Hz - 32 kHz Sensitivity 87 dB Impedance 4 ohm (Dual Coil)


please be advised you need the crossover that came with it, or you will need an active crossover dedicated to an amplifier to run these.

If the crossover is made to accept speaker level input from amp then.....Amp/head spkr output + to crossover + input. Amp/head spkr output - to crossover - input. Crossover midbass + out to midbass spkr + input. Crossover midbass - out to midbass spkr - input. Crossover vari-tweeter + out to tweeter spkr + input. Crossover vari-tweeter -3 or -0 or -6 out to tweeter spkr - input. You have to choose for your preference. 0db makes the tweeter respond normally. -3db mean 3db lower in volume...and -6 means 6db lower in volume. Choose based on your liking.

Yes and no. First I'll start by saying that the crossover should not be effected and the crossover frequency (meassured in Hz.) will not change either. What you will be doing is either doubling, or reducing by half, the effective impedance of your tweeter. If you wire the tweeters in parallel the impedance will be cut in half (car audio speakers are typically 4ohm), the result will be a 2ohm load. Most car amplifiers are "stable" at 2ohm, but sound quality will suffer. The other option is to wire them in series, this will double your effective impedance meaning an 8ohm load. With a higher load the amp will not put out the same wattage ( the lower wattage will most likely be undetectable). Hope this helps!

Any type of 4 channel amp that will allow the speakers to be hooked up at 4ohm. I would check your local walmart. The brand VR3 are made by Rockford fosgate as well as lighting audio. From what I have heard they are some really good amps at affordable prices. If you are looking to spend some money I would recommend a JL Audio e2150

Hello leonardoe,

The MB Quart's are component speakers and the PPI's are coaxials. In an "apples to oranges" comparison, the MB Quarts win. Most component systems in the same price range as a coaxial will have better sound imaging simply because you can mount the tweeters up high for better high frequency dispersion. Some also allow you to make adjustments to the crossover, which is built-in and fixed on the coaxial.

But component systems are more difficult to install. If your vehicle doesn't already have the wiring for separate tweeters, you have to install it. Likewise, the mounting of separate tweeters adds to the installation complexity.

Hope this helps.

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maybe the equilizers messed up

you should be able to remove the passive in-line crossover, but since it is blocking everything below 3500 hz, there is no need. leaving the passive crossover in place will also help protect the tweeters if something fails in your setup as any amped frequency below 3500 can seriously damage them.

Turn on the HPF it will definatly clear up the sound.