Tweeters fading out

http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/mbquart/pdfs/MB%20Quart%20QS216%20Speaker%20Manual.pdf

The wires provided for a radio system are as follows:
yellow = hot with ignition key ON
orange = hot from BATT at all times
Grey = dimming power from instrument panel

Black = ground

Harness Wires provided for the speakers as follows:
Left rear speaker = +brown -yellow
Right rear speaker = +dark blue - light blue
Left front door speaker and tweeter = +tan - grey
Right front door speaker and tweeter = +light green -grey
Note: connection colors at the speaker location differ as noted:
Right front door = +brown -yellow
Left front door = +brown -yellow
All other speaker connections are consistent with their harness colors.

Looking at the schematic provided by Maxxsonics, I see what the OP's problem is:
The manual shows one polarity on the sketch of the crossover's input terminals, yet the schematic below it shows the complete opposite polarity!
The output is correct.
Before you turn your crossover (or amp) into a smoke-generator, I suggest:
Double check your actual tweeter's input for labelled, silk-screened or embossed polarity and channel (Wf/Tw) markings, as manual may have errors on either drawing (top) or schematic (bottom).
If in doubt, try this:
With a DMM on ohms scale, and [font color="red"]Power Off[/font], from ground (chassis) to first input terminal, note down resistance.
Repeat ground to 2, Gnd to 3, Gnd to 4, all INputs..
The low readings should be negative (aka shielded screen or common GND).
However, the DMM test won't tell you which is Woofer or Tweeter.
Alternatively, you could undo the X-over shell, then trace the terminals to the board.
Negatives should go to ground (unless it's isolated in circuit).
To confirm which is yo 'Wofaah' and 'Tweetah' input, (shell and power back on), touch 2 mono wires from a small output (earphone of CD player, cassette, trannie radio etc) to each input and listen for Woofer bass and Tweeter treble difference.
Hope this helps you.

from the speaker outputs of the head unit / amplifier. Connect from the positive and the negative outputs to the respective positive and negative input of your X-over box. Now connect from the X-over woofer/midbass output to the bass driver. Now do the same for the tweeter from the X-over from the tweeter output to the tweeter. Make sure that all the positives and negatives are correctly connected.
If you are going to use your head unit to power the speakers then you should know that:
White & white with black stripe is the Front Left Speaker output
Grey & Grey with black stripe is the Fron Right Speaker output.
Green is rear left
Purple is rear right.
I think you get that the black stripe speaker cables are the negatives.
good luck

dreamsystems.

The JBL premium sound system has a large woofer in the bottom of each door, a small mid-range speaker next to the woofer, & tweeters next to the front door windows in the corner, & two full-range speakers near the rear seats. The woofer (not sub-woofer) handles all the low end. You can test the woofer by turning the BASS to max and TREBLE to minimum (make sure balance and fader are centered) and put your ear next to each woofer.
The woofer is usually the 1st speaker to have problems after 10 years or so. The outer edge of the woofer starts to degrade. You will usually hear a rattling sound out of the woofer when this happens.
NOTE: If no sound at all out of the woofer (tweeters are OK), you might take your car into a car stereo shop. They can put a speaker on the wires connected to the speaker and make sure your problem is not the radio.
PROBLEM: You can still hear sound out of the woofers but it is distorted
SOLUTION 1: Go to a car audio shop and have them install new woofers. These may cost $30+ each but the dealer cost is over $200 for each woofer (crazy).
SOLUTION 2: More involved but very cost effective. If you or a friend is handy, you can go to www.speakerworks.com and order a new set of speaker outer rings (on the site they are called speaker SURROUND) that will replace the damaged outer rings on the woofers (replace on both woofers). They really work great and your speakers should last for many more years.
Hope this helps.

If the crossover is made to accept speaker level input from amp then.....Amp/head spkr output + to crossover + input. Amp/head spkr output - to crossover - input. Crossover midbass + out to midbass spkr + input. Crossover midbass - out to midbass spkr - input. Crossover vari-tweeter + out to tweeter spkr + input. Crossover vari-tweeter -3 or -0 or -6 out to tweeter spkr - input. You have to choose for your preference. 0db makes the tweeter respond normally. -3db mean 3db lower in volume...and -6 means 6db lower in volume. Choose based on your liking.

Hello leonardoe,

The MB Quart's are component speakers and the PPI's are coaxials. In an "apples to oranges" comparison, the MB Quarts win. Most component systems in the same price range as a coaxial will have better sound imaging simply because you can mount the tweeters up high for better high frequency dispersion. Some also allow you to make adjustments to the crossover, which is built-in and fixed on the coaxial.

But component systems are more difficult to install. If your vehicle doesn't already have the wiring for separate tweeters, you have to install it. Likewise, the mounting of separate tweeters adds to the installation complexity.

Hope this helps.

it does sound like you shorted out your crossover which can be fixed if you know what you are doing, but in the long run i would try to get another one i know that raidoshack sells some small ones and is also cheap, if your positive that you didnt short out the crossover se if it needs power, see if you can cross your woffers and tweeters on the crossover, if not is there any settings that u can change on the crossover? hope i helped :)

ok well do u have a amp hooked up on the speaker and if not u could have dust in there or it could be a blown voice coil in the woofer part it self best way to check is to take a cotton swab u use in ur ear andgo along the coil part the speaker u no the brownish looks like ornge wires sum thing like that and do it very gently swab around the coil let me no if that helps

you should be able to remove the passive in-line crossover, but since it is blocking everything below 3500 hz, there is no need. leaving the passive crossover in place will also help protect the tweeters if something fails in your setup as any amped frequency below 3500 can seriously damage them.