Got control board working but back lights not working. All LEDs working on strips. 12v power to the strips but lose voltage rapidly at the LEDs
SOURCE: Low voltage light flashing
I haven't worked on one of them in years but I looked at a breakdown and the parts are as I remember. Go to Milwaukeetool.com and under parts/service type in your model number and view the wiring diagram for an operational check procedure. I would first look at the cord and is the base sitting on 1/2 or greater plate steel. If rusted or painted you will loose some of the holding force. Also I don't know what motor you have but some of the larger units require a lot of amps to operate and it is possible that even though you plugged it in direct to wall the circuit wasn't sufficient to operate both units. Last resort call the tech dept. at Milwaukee and see if they have any ideas. That panel is a component part as you know and there were no replacement parts for it. Hope this helps if not let me know and I will do some more checking
SOURCE: To convert the mains to 12volt supply to 12Volt suppl only
Well, the connector u can buy frm the particular company shop!! but for supply reazon, u hv to desgin plug for particular given vols..or just buy the normal adaptor or variable adopter
and get connect he 4 pin plug on that and enjoy!!
SOURCE: I have a NS-LCD37-09 tv. No picture or backlight
Your main board is faulty. I've done several of these but haven't been able to figure out which component is actually bad these yet. I've simply had to replace the board itself, and it fixes it every time. One thing you can do to get your backlights to come on (and so you know I'm not Jive'n you) Is unplug the three wire bundle that spans from power supply to main board. This will usually make the backlights fire up. I even had one that after I left it that way for a minute (with the backlight on) it suddenly started working again! But this was short lived. :-(
One time I even tried recapping the entire main to see it that would fix it. It did not. I think it might be something to do with the small chip labeled SL37HA37. It's a 16 legged bastard near the 3-wire plug I told you to pull. It's that or possibly the bigger IC near it that has a heat sink on it. The ball grid array solder joints may be faulty. Just guesses, if any smart guys out there figure this one out, be sure to tell the rest of us please!
Thanks, Chris
Boise LCD
www.boiselcd.com
SOURCE: Hot water heater Model EE3J40RD045V
how to change lower heating element on water heater Whirlpool ee3j40rd045v
SOURCE: Acer AL511 15" I need advice in repairing this
Ok so what is your question exactly, I do not see a question in there?
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