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Jennifer Root Posted on Jan 13, 2018
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Whirlpool dryer model LER4634EQ0 won't hear up Cheked the voltage to the dryer, wires to the hearing element and fuses, the hearing element, thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, internal bias thermostat, high limit thermostat, belts, timer, timer resistor, push on switch, door switch, heater box, house breakers, the seals, cleaned the vents even ran it without vent hooked up... then checked wires from the motor to the element and the motor itself...what else is there to check? Everything is checking out fine

1 Answer

myrlanthian

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  • Expert 250 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2018
myrlanthian
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You seem to have checked everything. Did you check there is voltage to the elements, and have you checked amp usage on elements? Sometimes things check out ok but the problems shows when power is passed through the element itself.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 01, 2010

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer model 11060901990 wont start

I would recommend you begin by checking the THERMAL FUSE. The fuse is located on the air blower assembly and is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing and make sure you take any resistance readings with the component removed from the circuit. You can isolate it by simply unplugging the wires to it. A good reading will be something close to zero ohms.

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot a dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


If you do find the thermal fuse blown, it generally blows for a reason. This is usally attributed to something coming in contact with the fuse wires (like loose change from your pockets), or a dryer that has an obstructed exhaust vent. Inspect the interior cabinet and air blower fan for accumulations of dirt or lint, followed by an inspection of the dryer vent from where it leaves the back of the dryer, to where it exits your home. If the dryer exhaust vent is kinked or clogged, the dryer heating circuits will overheat to the point of failure. Failure to provide good air flow for the dryer will results in repeated component failures and can become a fire hazard.

If you have questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening on Kenmore) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Testimonial: "Thanks!! I had to borrow a multimeter from my father-in-law. I tested the Thermal fuse, and it is bad, so I've ordered a new one with a thermostat. Thanks alot!"

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Anonymous

  • 2341 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 17, 2011

SOURCE: crosley model ced5563rq, checked continuty

Hello,
What you still the actul circuits on the timer,the thing that can make a dryer not start are things you hav ealready checked plus also the timer&motor,and perhaps a belt switch i could not find your actual model number to see if it has a belt switch but lots of brand use a switch that cuts motor curcuit when belt is broke, but as i said it also could be timer or motor

GENE

some1cares_m

Jorgie the appliance guy

  • 5639 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2015

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

I would check the heating element for continuity around 1200 ohms but if its closed and gives u a reading u should still be ok. as for ur thermostats the thermal cut off 0 ohms is ok as long as it does not read infinity or open circuit? CHECK THE CYCLING AND THE HI LIMIT thermostats also. Another thing to consider is , is the machine getting a full 220 at the terminal may need to check for votage from the outlet and to the machine. If u get say only 110 you will have enough to run the machine but not enough to run the heater which uses a full 220 volts. earlier u said something bout ur heating testing ok ? you did get an ohm reading?

iam6fan

Chris Huff

  • 6289 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 15, 2017

SOURCE: Roper dryer red4440vq1 not drying after changing internal fuse, internal bias, high limit thermostat and thermal cut off and cleaning vent, element heats up to temp and cycles

If heater is heating and not drying clothes, you have a blockage in ventilation system somewhere either internally in dryer or going out from dryer to outside. Take vent off back of dryer and turn on. Is air flow strong and hot?

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Related Questions:

0helpful
2answers

I have an older whirlpool dryer the timer is ticking but the dryer itself won’t turn on is there a reset button

There’s no reset on it. Could be problem with door switch, thermal fuse, timer, motor, or wiring.
0helpful
1answer

Ler4634eq0

Most commonly it's the white thermal fuse in the back of the dryer, but it could be any number of things including a door switch, burned wire, bad motor, bad timer, etc. Try the thermal fuse first. It's easiest and cheapest.
0helpful
1answer

Dryer not drying

another user's Q&A for the same issue try that or call may tag, they are supper helpful

Investigate these five areas if your dryer is not heating up:

Proper Voltage

If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.

8574d88.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

d5b5af3.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
77d6bd4.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

    0helpful
    1answer

    MY dryer stoped working

    I need your model number to be more helpful. You can start by checking your door switch if the dryer just won't start. You should hear a click from the door switch when you open or close it. If no sound then replace the switch. If the dryer runs, but no heat, often a dryers heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
    On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it.
    Here is a video to help you check for the problem.
    0helpful
    1answer

    Whirlpool dryer not heating up

    If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

    1. Heating Element
    2. Thermal Cut-Out
    3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
    4. Internal Bias Thermostat
    5. Thermal Fuse

    You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

    As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

    The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

    You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

    http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


    The components are listed as follows:

    Heating Element (Item 17)
    Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
    Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
    Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
    Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

    If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

    If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

    http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

    The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

    1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

    2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

    3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

    4. Blown heating element.

    Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

    NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).
    0helpful
    1answer

    Our dryer stopped working last week. We were drying a load and when we returned the dryer was very hot on the outside (more than normal) and the button to turn it on no longer worked. There is power to...

    There is a in line thermal fuse that is in the machine near the heating element that has probably burned out from overheating replace the thermal fuse and check your vent pipe for clogs and or kinks that cause the machine to overheat.
    1helpful
    2answers

    My Whirlpool Ultimate Care II dryer does not heat up, however it does tumble. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
    2helpful
    1answer

    How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0

    All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

    Right-Hand Side:

    1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

    2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

    3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

    NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

    Left-Hand Side:

    1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

    2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

    NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

    If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

    Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
    Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
    Item 17 - Heating Element
    Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
    Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

    If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
    Sep 23, 2009 • Dryers
    3helpful
    2answers

    Whirlpool dryer WED5530SQ0, heats but does not run

    So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!
    1helpful
    1answer

    Whirlpool Dryer not heating

    There is many different things it could be! most of the time it is not the heating element. You have thermal fuses and safety switches. I bet you 10 to 1 if you locate the thermal fuse on the element cannon say 1 foot up from the incoming voltage from the wires to the heating element.

    1. either disconnect power to the unit, take continuity on every fuse try the one i suggested first.
    2. the same exact fuse im talking about disconnect power and connect both wires together, dont ground it out, plug power back in and then try it.

    Note this is only advice and Whirlpool Parts Surplus is not responsible. Try that give us a call or hit that link and find your thermal fuse part number.
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