Car runs fine except at speed above 50 mph, the car stays at higher rpm, meaning no lockup, since there are 3 transmission solenoids, which one causes the lockup problem?
If you google search it you will find which one it is.
SOURCE: engine runs rough at certain speeds 3.0 v6 flex-fuel 1999 ranger
Check and see if the EGR valve is leaking, to check this spray water on it at idle, if the water steams off the valve is leaking and is the source of your problem, also are you sure you hooked the new DPFE sensor up right? re-check it..
SOURCE: reset check engine light on 1995 geo tracker
I had the very same problem with my 94 tracker and it turned out to be something simple. My check engine light had popped on after it had hit 100,000. I went through all of the suggestions that people had suggested (unplug battery......etc) and still to no avail. Searching the internet, I came across a website called suzukiforum.com and there, this guy was able to help me with my problem. It turned out to be a maintenance switch that kicks on every 50,000 miles. This switch is like a secret that the auto manufactures use to ploy owners of their cars to bring to the dealer and then rack up the dollars in unnecessary "repairs". The switch is located under the dash and can be hidden anywhere. From the assistance of the guy on the forum, he was able to send me photos of this damn switch and possible locations where it may be mounted. I found mine in about 5 minutes, where it was attached to the steering column. It's a tiny switch, that you slide up or down, depending on what position it is in upon finding it. If it's up, then slide it in the down position and visa versa. Once you do this, the check engine light will go off. Make sure you do not have the car running and you can even unhook one of the battery posts, just to make sure you don't hit anything while rooting around under the dash. Good luck!
SOURCE: 1998 toyota corolla shakes before 2 rpm, check engine lights up
Not sure what is causing it, but it sounds like you're running on 3 cyllinders. Check plugs, wires, timing . timing belt may have jumped, bad injector, low fuel pressure.
SOURCE: 2000 Ford Focus Sputtering / Speedometer Needle Jumping
It could be a spark plug, plug wire, or a coil. Sometimes thay break down intermittently. If it needs a tuneup, that would be the first thing to do.
SOURCE: check engine code P0740 (torque conv clutch no rpm
Low fluid pressure to the torque converter Have seen this before. I first try to flush the fluid and replace the filter fixed the problem most of the time. If that doesn't work u need a new torque converter.
This can be caused from as little as a blown fuse or bad ground to a bad valve body in the transmission. I would suggest a transmission shop to further diagnose since there are pressures that need checked and circuits that will need checked with diagnostic equipment. Here is a description and the testing procedure for DTC P0740. Keep in mind that there is a good chance the trans will need rebuilt.
Possible Causes:
Internal transmission component fault (Input or Reaction shaft) Internal transmission leakage (valve body leaking or seal rings) Converter clutch valve or clutch timing valve is sticking TCC assembly has failed.
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