My rifle is zeroed in @ 100 yards. My scope has .25" clicks. How many clicks do I need to dial in to hit @ 400 yards? My rifle will drop 6 inches from my 100 yard zero @ 400 yards.

When I zeroed mine I did it at 25 yards ironsight, and 50 yards scoped. The effective range isn't that far on the standard .22 but in the end it comes down to personal preference.

He is right the bullet at most will be 1/2 high at 50yards. Zero at 100 if sighted correctly. The bullet is flat to about 100 yards and will drop significantly for the next 300 yards. At 400yards your drop is almost 7-8 inches and at longer than that the bullet loses most if its effective stopping power for hunting and the drop is really significant. Not worth the effort......

You need to sight in the scope and rifle to 100 yards then reset the dial making sure the knob as the manual says
do a check sight in
Then you turn on the electronics
the drop number you input is 112 and the BC is 55
as you haven't given an altitude for sight in or shoot site I have allowed for them being equal
you now shoot at a target at 400 yards and for each inch below or above the aim point add or subtract 6 from the drop number
drop number entered is 112 and your shot is 4 inches low
4x6=24 so your new drop number is 136
and if 4 inches high the drop number is 4x-6=-24 new drop number 88 so you now change the inputted drop number to the ones you have and shoot a few groups at 400 to confirm point of impact and aim point and adjust accordingly
Forgot to explain that the 112 drop number is the calculated drop for your round at 750 yards and that you are changing it by confirming the actual drop at 400 and the scope is calculating internally for 750

No, this is not a scope issue. The scope is raised above the centerline of the barrel, thus at 10 yards, the barrell is actually slightly raised in relation to the centerline of the scope in order to hit your point of aim. Since the front of the barrel is slightly inclined, at 25 yards the bullet is still rising in relation to the scope alignment. Backing up to 50 yards you will begin to see the bullet start to drop back down, at 100 yards it may drop as much as 8-10 inches, and at 200 yards, it may drop as much as 52 inches. This is assuming that you are shooting a standard velocity .22 long rifle cartridge (1050 feet per second or so).

It sounds good to me, don't forget, the 25-06 is a flat shooting round, you have your scope pointing up, the bullet crosses the line of sight twice, One at 100 yrds, your zero and the other on it's way down at about 500 yards. You can check the ballistic coefficient of that bullet and see where you need to be zeroing it in at. I would think about 250 yards, will be 1 1/2 low at 100 yards, 3/4 inches low at 200 yards, dead on at 250, then it will start coming down, say 8 inches low at 400 and 18 inches low at 500. Something like that. So your BDC will not be needed till you reach out past 300 yards, which is varmint country stuff. I have my .22 marlin sighted in at 100 yards, and it will put the lights out on anything at that range. You can probably find the charts on line someplace, if you don't have a reloading manual. Check it out.

I think the mildots only go so far, you have to do your homework on these things. Your 22.250 zeroed in at 100 yrds, velocity 3800, drops 7.4 inches at 300 yards, and 37 inches at 500 yards, so your mildots being set at x number of inches per dot, will not hit at 500 yards, your bullet is not enough. Even sighted in at 400 yards, the bullet drops 13.6 inches at 500 yards. But,,, with the same 400 yard zero, at 100,+4.7,200,+7.7,300,+6.6. That is about the flatest you'll get. And your mildots will be set likewise. You know they made the mildot scope for the trajectory of the 308. They changed everything for that bullet.

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

With modern rifle scopes the crosshairs do not move.They are designed so that the crosshairs are always centered.I have not seen a scope with crosshairs that move for about 40 years.If your scope has 1/4 minute clicks, then the strike of the bullet moves 1/4 inch at 100 yards for every click.1 inch for 4 clicks and so on.If you rifle shoots 6 inches high at 100 yards you should turn it down 24 clicks to strike dead on.Many hunters and shooters adjust their scopes to strike 1 1/2 inches high at 100 yards.Then it will be accurate to about 300 yards without further adjustment.

Keep in mind Diane this is for a set distance. if you are taking a shot at a target further than your are set for (ie a target you wont get 3 shots @) remember how the bullet is travelling as it goes down range

one idea would be to set your rifle up down range and zero it in on a target (preferably paper) now adjust 1 MOA (try and have target @ 100 yards and 200 yards)

see how far the bullet moves for each moa adjustment. then check it against the next range.

this should remain constant @ a set number of inches per 100 yards.

so if you zero in @ 100 yards and then move 1 moa any direction and it adjusts (lets say and hope it is 1.047 inches") then you do the same for 200 yards. it should be twice as much movement. ie 2.094"

once you know what 1 moa represents on your scope you can adjust alot more accurately.

REMEBER the total inches of movement / adjustment per MOA is directly related to range (a precise range helps in shooting) so if your squirrel is 150 yards and your first shot is off 9" to adjust you divide 9" by the inches per moa so 1.5 (150 yards /100) X (Inches per 100 yards per moa you measured hopefully 1.047") its 9" divided by 2x1.047 = 9" / 2.094 = 4.29799

this number needs to be rounded to the nearest click on your scope (most are 1/4 MOA scopes and you can tell by looking at how many clicks/lines are inbewteen each large number on your windage and elevation dials

so to turn this into an adjustment we round 4.29799 to 4.25 which is 4.25 MOA or 17 clicks on a 1/4 min scope.

GL and any questions just post and ill help

not please rate this as fixya :)

Note i can provide EXACT information that would allow you to determine range, and windage and elevation adjustments by looking through scope and estimating range
then factoring in weather variables. NOTE you hafta enjoy math or just want to know how to shoot really well. :)

Ja, it's 1/4 M.O.A, so at 25 yards/meter it'll be ca 3 inches. You may have gone in the wrong direction. That is, if it was 3' high, and you went another 3 higher then you'd be at the top of the paper. Probably you've got it figured out by now.

The easiest, fastest, cheapest way to zero is with a rifle rest you can clamp your scope into, or alternatively somehow immobilize your rifle some other way. You take a shot, at 25 yards or so. It makes a hole. You now immobilize the rifle, via your rest or heavy sandbags, with the scope pointing exactly where you aimed before. You now, carefully and without moving the rifle/scope off of the point of aim, dial your reticle to point at the actual bullet hole. Your next shot will be at your point of aim now. So you just put it at the right height above your point of aim at 100 yards now.