Should i replace the upper sensor? My hot water sensor on my water heater blinks 6 times which is the upper sensor.I ordered the part and now It blinks 5 times pauses then blinks 6 times.

Push circuit breaker fully off and then fully ON
Test for 240 volt across top twp screws on upper thermostat.
If tank was not full of water when breaker was turned on, then upper element burned out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Yes both elements will test for 120 volt to ground at all times... but it takes 240 volt to heat element
http://waterheatertimer.org/Element-tests-for-120-Volts.html

Gene


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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You have 240Volt Marathon water heater.
These heaters have element burn-out problems.
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Yes sediment can cause decreased amount of hot water when water cannot circulate around lower element, and sediment can cause lower element to burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Following list is overview of tank troubleshoot:

If you have some hot water, then that says several things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity from circuit breaker to upper thermostat is good.
-ECO reset button is not tripped.
-You do not have overheating event.
-Access doors and insulation are in place and thermostat not exposed to cool temperature that causes overheating.

That leaves following suspects:
1) Check if TP valve is stuck open, or pipe cracked, or faucet leaking and running hot water down a drain.

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad.

3) Lower element is bad -and- maybe tank has built-up sediment
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

4) Loose wire. Open covers and inspect. Tighten screws very tight against copper wire.

5) Bad wire between upper and lower sections of tank.

6) Do complete 30 minute troubleshoot before replacing any parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
We are always less expensive than a service call.

You posted under Rheem 40 gallon tank-type electric water heater.

You have some hot water so that says specific things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity to water heater and circuit breaker are good
-You don't report a leak so TP valve is good
-You are not experiencing overheating event
-ECO reset button is not tripped
-Insulation and covers are in place so thermostat not exposed to cooler temperatures that would cause thermostat to misread temperature and cause overheating.

That leaves 6 suspects listed in order of difficulty:
1) Leaking faucet or broken water line that is running hot water all the time and tank cannot keep up.

2) Thermostats set too low. Turn power OFF, open covers and check each thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

3) Loose screw, loose wire at upper thermostat, lower thermostat, or lower element. Turn power OFF and tighten screws, and look for signs of high heat and burning, especially on lower element.

4) Upper or lower thermostat. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if that corrects problem.
Parts available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Defective wire between upper and lower sections of tank: If this is the case, and water heater has 2" foam insulation, then tank usually replaced since insulation is too dense to drop another wire. Call for manufacturer for warranty information. Do a full troubleshoot using multimeter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

6) Lower element is burned out. Test lower element. Replace lower element. Rheem elements are 4500 Watts and are available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-element-and-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You have some hot water so that says specific things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity to water heater and circuit breaker are good
-You don't report a leak so TP valve is good
-You are not experiencing overheating event
-ECO reset button is not tripped
-Insulation and covers are in place so thermostat not exposed to cooler temperatures that would cause thermostat to misread temperature and cause overheating.

That leaves 6 suspects listed in order of ease:
1) Leaking faucet or broken water line that is running hot water all the time and tank cannot keep up.

2) Thermostats set too low. Turn power OFF, open covers and check each thermostat setting.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

3) Loose screw or loose wire at upper thermostat, lower thermostat, or lower element. Turn power OFF and tighten screws, and look for signs of high heat and burning, especially on lower element.

4) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if that corrects problem.
Parts available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Defective wire between upper and lower sections of tank: If this is the case, and water heater has 2" foam insulation, then tank usually replaced since insulation is too dense to drop another wire. Call for manufacturer for warranty information. Do a full troubleshoot using multimeter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

6) Lower element is burned out. Test lower element. Replace lower element. Rheem elements are 4500 Watts and are available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-element-and-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Hi,

Yes, the reset probably is tripped...push in the red button hard
Then turn it on and try it...

Check out this tip..

How to replace the Thermostat and Element for Electric Hot Water Heater

heatman101

You need to take 1/2 hour to learn basics and then test water heater parts before replacing anything.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
Follow the troubleshooting steps, and it will tell you exactly where the problem is.
Otherwise we can guess at 20 different things.

Water heater is 240V because you have more than 1 element.
Did you test for 240V across top two screws of upper element?
Breaker can be tripped off on one leg and 120V arrives at water heater so heater looks like it has electricity, but circuit is not complete.

The problem can be loose wire, bad 240V circuit breaker, sediment reaching lower element, bad thermostat, bad upper element, tripped ECO reset button.

Did you replace factory insulation and cover over thermostats after replacing elements?
Did you vacuum out sediment when replacing lower element?

How long ago did you replace elements? If you turned power ON before tank was completely filled with water, then you burned out the element. If upper element is burned out, the tank has no hot water, even if lower element is good.
Test the upper element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
See how a water heater works:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

And finally, why so many folks write to fixya saying they replaced both elements and upper thermostat, but they never replace lower thermostat for another $6? I have been puzzled about that since lower thermostat turns on and off each time tank temperature drops and is responsible for keeping water warm during standby hours. Lower thermostat cycles more times than upper thermostat.

Add a comment if you need specific assistance with any of the testing steps.

http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=052c9e32-ce37-48d7-8990-9e430f23fef3

82V80-2 Energy factor is .86 according to water heater industry self-regulated standards.

Rheem pdf says these water heaters are wired for non-simultaneous operation.
Except special order water heaters.
Non-simultaneous operation uses single 240V circuit as described below.
If your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and each element is on a separate circuit, that makes your water heater special order. I would guess the reason is for higher first-hour delivery, which implies rapid heating and would likely affect energy factor.
You might want to get serial number off model and call Rheem for specs on that special order.

Your water heater energy factor may be the same because 'energy efficiency is based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day.' This means an aircraft carrier can be considered highly efficient despite overall cost. And naturally the guys making the aircraft carrier are also doing the rating.
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000

Non simultaneous operation means the upper thermostat controls heating functions.
240V goes to upper thermostat first.
When water inside tank is cold, thermostat reads temperature through tank wall.
Upper thermostat turns on upper element until top 2/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
Once set point is reached, upper thermostat turns off upper element and sends power to lower thermostat and lower element.
Lower thermostat reads temperature through tank wall, and turns on lower element until bottom 1/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
As water cools inside tank, lower thermostat is first to respond since hot water rises.
Lower thermostat turns on lower element until tank again reaches set point.
When hot water faucet is turned on, hot water exits top of tank.
At same time, cold water enters bottom of tank through the dip tube.
The heating cycle repeats.
At all times, the electricity flows through upper thermostat. And upper thermostat is powered by one 240V circuit.

With simultaneous operation, the upper and lower thermostats work in same manner.
Except thermostats are wired separately.
Lower thermostat does not wait for upper part of tank to be heated first.
Lower thermostat turns on whenever lower part of tank cools.
The advantage is more hot water available rapidly when demand is high. This is called first hour recovery.

One method for reducing electric consumption is to set lower thermostat so it only turns on during certain times of day. For example Whirlpool Energy Smart operates in this manner and shaves a few bucks off the bill each month. This says that simultaneous operation is not an energy saver, unless that circuit controlling lower thermostat is set on a timer.

call whirlpool and order new control board it should be covered under warrenty

2 flashes = high water temperature (the water heater comes set at 120, and you can set it lower or higher)
3 flashes = sensor failure (temperature sensor similar to a thermostat on regular water heater)
4 flashes = upper element
5 flashes = lower element
Links below are for Whirlpool manuals
http://www.whirlpoolwaterheaters.com/support/Manuals.aspx
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

The water heater is working right now.
If the elements go out, they are available at any hardware store.
The temperature sensor is easily replaced and can be ordered from Whirlpool.
You might want an extra temperature sensor on-hand so repairs are not delayed.
Link below shows the product in detail.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html
Let the water heater do its job until it fails.

Called whirlpool and explained the problem. They said I need to replace that upper sensor and so they sent me a part in the mail which cost roughly $25. (usd) not including the overnight shipping which is around another $25 or so. This picture is what I received in the mail. Comes with directions of installment.