The heating element appears to be firmly encased in a silver metal oblong box, but there aren't wires hanging from it, and there are silver flaps that are folded over, no screws to take apart and open up. Thanks!
On the dryer door there is a some kind of switch or button that shut off the dryer when opened if you can push it in and turn on the dryer and you should feel the heat or see the heater coil getting hot.
SOURCE: Whirlpool GEQ9800P Electric No heat
remove the bottom acess panel the element is on the right side there are 2 thermastats and 2 safety limits that should read contunity if they are good
SOURCE: Can't open Admiral ADE7005AYW
Try sliding a thin putty knife rearward at each front corner of the top while lifting upward slightly. Shine a light into the joint and look for metal joining the two halves. Once the top is loose, look for screws in the inside front edges and lift up on the front panel to release. Make sure to pull the power plug while working in there.
SOURCE: Electric Heating Element
No continuity would mean the element is OPEN, or showing an infinite resistance reading. If the element were SHORTED, it would read 0 ohms. These elements are supposed to read 9 to 13 ohms if good. Double check and make sure have your meter scale set correctly. You should be taking resistance checks on the lowest scale of Rx1.
If you have confirmed the element is defective, and the model dryer is correct, the element should pull out of the heater box by removing two screws on the left hand side of the box. You will need to remove the thermal cut-out (TCO) and hi-limit thermostat in order to accommodate removal of the element. These are the two components that are mounted on the side of the heater box. You leave the wires connected, and simply remove any mounting screws that hold them in place. This will keep the element from coming out of the heater box.
If these instructions are not clear, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can understand how your dryer is configured.
If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions. I'm assuming this is a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, because of the illustration you posted the question under. I hope you find this information is helpful.
If you would like some added advice that can help you in the future, Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that you can to help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.
SOURCE: Intermittent heating on my Whirlpool gas dryer
ok have u checked the hi and low relays for continuity these are both found aroundthat area as well and make sure you unplug yr machine before performing this test you also have an ignitor inside the unit which should be drawing 3.3 amps if it is lower then you should replace the ignitor hope this helps
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