How do I mount the blade on Dewalt 7739? There is a distance piece, two cupped spacers, a nylon washer and a "washer" to change the blade diameter to fit the shaft. The shaft being small and the hole

Try going back to basics. Yes, I've been caught out by something silly and obvious! Are they the correct OEM blades for that model? Are there washers/spacers fitted on the mount screws? Are they the correct screws? Have all the access covers and cutting guides been refitted correctly? Has the depth guide been set correctly?
Some planers can be fitted with thicker or thinner blades depending on the model. Washers/spacers may need to be fitted under the blades so they are 'trapped' and lift the blade high enough to clear the screws. Are the original screws 'dome head' or 'countersunk'? Domes will sit higher and touch the wood as the blade spins. The access covers, cutting guides and depth gauges could be out of position affecting the cutting platform.

Make sure that the hole in the saw blade is the same size as the hole in the old blade. If larger obtain a spacer from your supplier. (Spacer is a washer with outside diameter fitting tightly in the sawblade's center hole and inner hole the same diameter as your saw's shaft.

Hello, W/D here.

Remove your new blade. With the hardware, bolt, washer,blade and cups off, try the saw. If it operates correctly, re-examine how the blade is installed One blade cup goes on, followed by the blade, then the other cup, followed by the washer and bolt assembly. If the cups were in the wrong order, the blade can drag against the frame of the saw, pulling too many amps, and tripping the breaker.
Here is a link to DeWalt. Enter your model # for manual download and exploded diagrams.

http://servicenet.dewalt.com/

Best regards, --W/D--

I was able to make my own by going to the local hardware store and buying 2 nylon parts and doing some careful milling/filling. The following dimensions were checked against an original EM14e trigger. These instructions may or may not work with other McCullough Chainsaws, but they worked for me!

1.) buy a nylon thumscrew with a 3.20mm (.125 in) outer diameter and 13.2mm (.5 in) THREADED length (overall length varies depending on type of flat head used for thumbscrew and overall total length will likely exceed 18mm or .75 in)

2.) a nylon spacer .25in length and .125in inner diameter that I cut in half and used a shop grinder to loosely fit onto a mounting nail. I used the shop grinder to gently mill down to 8.7mm outer diameter by slowly pressing the spacer/nail combo against the grinder wheel.

I then tested in the EM14E handle to check for fit and after several trips to the grinder for the spacer, it works great.

3.) After checking for fit I glued the thumscrew and spacer together and am now able to use the trigger. Please note if you have a working loose fit for the trigger, do what I have and simply use masking tape to keep the trigger with the chainsaw so it does not get lost.

DO NOT USE SAW!!!

1. switch off saw, remove cord from socket (positive electrical insulation)
2. lift table for maximum cut and check size of the washer holding the blade,
3. you should have holding nut with collar, collar is about 1 1/4 (32mm) diameter, then blade (diamond is actually universal reducing bush in some blades) and lastly you should have internal washer, again, about 1 1/4" (32mm) diameter. if your collar are smaller, you need to replace blade as not suitable for your particular model, albeit I am rather suspicious that you have wrong collared nut and internal collar. Please check if both collars are exactly this same diameter. Please check if collars cover diamond cut-out.
4. if you see discreptancy between description in 3, purchase suitable blade (external diameter is 7 1/4" (184mm), as you did not supply what model of your saw, therefore most probably shank is 5/8" (16mm),
5. mount internal bush (collar), will go correctly only in one way.
6. mount blade (pay attention to cut direction, cutting surface should be clockwise if you look at mounting shaft.
7. mount external flared nut
8. check blade for slippage and wobbliness
9. connect power cord and switch on/off
10. check saw blade againg for slippage/wobbliness
11. make test cut if 10 was correct
12. use normally

Do not forget that this is not a toy, it will cut through wood, ocassional nail and your fingers.

Opearating saw crate flying debris, always wear googles or facemask, you have only two eyes and there is no spares.

Please leave note how you go with this advice.

Check to be sure you are using the correct washer for the center mounting hole that fits around the center mounting bolt, and inside the universal mounting center hole of the blade and as well be sure that you use the washer that covers the inner spacer washer as well that secures the blade to a solid mounting that won't vibrate ( large washer on the center mount bolt First then the smaller washer that fits into the blades mounting hole and over the bolt )

Un-plug the saw. Remove the screws holding the side saw guard in place. Look at the center of the saw blade for the nut holding it in place. Take a socket wrench that fits the nut and loosen it. You'll need to take a scrap piece of wood 2x4, and jamb the teeth of the blade into it while loosening the nut. The nut will come off first and then a washer/spacer.

Reverse the order for installing the new blade. Make sure you use the proper size diameter blade (10 inch) and mounting hole in the replacement blade. Also, use the provided washer/spacers that were on the original blade and secure the nut. Spin by hand to see if everything clears. Mount the protective guard back on. Plug in the saw and test cut .

Good luck. If you are still unsure - ask a handy neighbor to help. It takes about 5 minutes to complete this task.

We had to send our saw to repair center to install new lever. Fortunately, still under warranty.

This could be caused by several problems. First unplug the saw. Put a known straight edge against the blade (making sure not to contact the teeth) turn the blade slowly and watch for runout. Second make sure the spacers and blade flanges are on correctly. I would just about think it would be the blade. If you provide the model and brand I can do some more research. Good Luck

Hi,
I had the same problem, in my dishwasher ZDI6895sx the solution to my problem was in the connection between the main PCB and the display/ control pcb on which the buttons/ led's etc are mounted.

On my machine there are about 8 wires in a ribbon type connector which connect the two pcb's, the connection to the main PCB is soldered and on the smaller PCB is a push on fitting, the connections on this pcb are prone to oxidation, there could also be stress on the connector from all of the button pushing, check the connecting wires for continuity with a multimeter if possible but otherwise just remove the connector from the samller pcb clean well(reflow with solder if required) and reseat the connector in its original configuration.

As always only perform this repair if you feel confident and have turned all power to the machine off prior to dismantling.

Let me know how you get on.

Kieran