I have a klimaire mini split.when it was installed there was a screw in the electrical panel box that penetrated the feed wire and caused the breaker to trip however after repairing the wire the conde

If it were a car I'd say something to do with the belt. Maybe check that out.

your fan most likely is wired for low speed for heat which is common. this should be determined when furnace is set up properly. motors that aren't modulating motors and are multispeed motors typically have low medium and high taps that come off the motor and go to the corresponding relay on the board. low and medium speeds are used for heat and high and medium speeds are used for cooling. but only one speed for heat and one speed for cooling many times medium never gets used. im not familiar with klimaire is this a mini split system and not a regular air handler. cause speed control should be adjustable from the remote. if its a split but if not reaching desired speed due to a malfunction in the units could cause it to run low speed just to maintain the temperature exiting the indoor unit.

You should check the fuses and breakers it might not be something that expensive, it could also be the controller for the outside unit that is bad. Google kllimare dealers and your zipcode.

The specs on that unit dont list the wattage of the head unit. I would be very careful about just tapping into the wiring in the wall. First off you need to know what the wire size is in the wall. The second thing is that you have to enclose it in a box if you tap it. The outside unit is another issue. It has to have its own source of wiring and it has to meet specs for outdoor use. So you will have to run a circuit just for that. No matter how you do this. You should have an electrical inspection done before it is finished.

hi, E1: communication error between indoor and outdoor unit.
Air Conditioning Fault Codes

Here's a picture of a messy amateur installation:



Look closely and find the power feeder conductors entering the panel on the bottom. The white rises up to the right and terminates in the "neutral" bus lug on the top right. The black also rises up to the right and terminates in the left "line" bus lug on the left. The red wire rises up to the left and terminates in the "line" bus lug on the right - just below the neutral lug. Finally, the ground rises left and terminates in a separate ground bar that is secured directly to the back of the upper left side of the panel box in pre-tapped holes for this purpose.

Since you are supplying this panel from your home's panel, you MUST keep the neutral and ground feeders separated in this panel (even though they will both probably originate from the neutral bar in your home's service panel). You must NOT install the long "bond" screw through the neutral bar in to the panel box. If the long bond screw is already installed, you must REMOVE it (usually this screw it shipped loose in a bag with a tag on it).

When the picture was taken, the flash reflected back making the right side of the neutral bar difficult to see - so I can't determine if the screw is installed there or not. When connecting circuits to this panel, the hot wires will of course go to the circuit breaker terminals, but the neutral and ground wires must not be mixed. The ground wires (and ONLY the ground wires) must terminate in the ground bar. The neutral wires (and ONLY the neutral wires) must terminate in the neutral bus bar. The person that wired this panel has mixed them. This would be a dangerous situation if the the long bond screw mentioned above is installed in the neutral bar to bond it to the panel box.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thanks.

The breaker must engage TWO bus bars in the panel, in addition to the a neutral connection. If the breaker is aligned to engage only one of the bus bars, only one of the terminals will be powered at the breaker terminal screw (most likely the top).

Some electrical panels have covers that have numbers and spaces stamped for circuit breakers at the bottom; when in reality, there is no bus bar to connect. Make sure you are not attempting to install into a space that lacks both bus bars.

If unable to get 240 volts out of the breaker without the load wires connected, there may be an issue internally with it. If after connecting the load wires, one side fails again, it may be detecting a ground fault or an over current situation but due to an internal failure is unable to trip both poles of the breaker. This breaker should be replaced.

The National Electrical Code prohibits the use of mixing circuit breaker manufacturers and circuit breaker panels by requiring all electrical equipment to be certified (UL Listed, FM, etc.). Challenger breakers are UL listed, as are Challenger panels. All the circuit breakers installed must be made by Challenger and must be approved for use in that particular panel (more on this below). Installing a different brand breaker into the panel causes the panel and the breaker to lose the UL / FM listing. The lack of a listing causes the electrical code violation. Should a fire occur, and the source is determined to be the use of a mixed manufacturer panel / circuit breaker installation, you insurance company may balk at paying a claim.

If you are unsure of the circuit breakers that are approved for use in your panel, look on the inside cover of the door. On it should be listed the manufacturer's name and all the devices that that the panel will accept. Deviating from the list will trigger the loss of listing.

A final thought: Most GFI breakers are much more expensive than a GFCI outlet. Install a standard non-GFI Challenger breaker and feed a new outlet (next to the panel) with a GFCI plug via the LINE terminals. Connect the rest of the old circuit to the outlet's LOAD terminals. The portion of the circuit that is connected to the LOAD terminals are now GFCI protected. Overloads will trip the circuit breaker as usual, but ground fault issues will trip at the outlet instead.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. thanks.

for this you have to go into the the board located in the right side of the unit if your problem is what i think it is crosswire on the board.

I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.

To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.

If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.

Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.