My red wire from battery became un soldered where dose it go

First you have to remove all backing plates...Wire feeds through the small hole running from battery area and attached to the volume/treble dials...then to the pickups..Everything is soldered to the switches....If you plan on removing them you will need a soldering gun and silver soldering wire...It takes a steady hand and good vision to do this....I recommend a magnifying glass and or glasses....

black and red will goto 1 speaker. and blue/yellow to the other. typically red and yellow are + and black and blue are -. the crossover board might tell you which is which where they solder to it. but i'm pretty sure the black/red goto woofer. try hooking up both to woofer and listen to it. 1 way is going to sound horribly wrong lol. that will mean you hooked up the tweeter leads to the woofer. but DO NOT HOOK UP WOOFER LEADS TO TWEETER. thats why i say to do it on woofer.

If on battery, battery is depleted. If on adapter, connection is probably bad. Often power jack is broken or has bad soldering.

Hi.
If the red light is coming from a tube and you notice a loss of sound when it lights up, try reseating the tubes. You have to make sure that the amplifier is cool and is not plugged in to any power source when you do this and you have to be very very careful with the glass tube as well.
If the red light comes from an LED, it may be an indication of a bad wiring. Check if all wires are in good condition and are soldered correctly.
I hope this helps. Thanks. :-)

If it is a coax with a wire in the center and a shield outside, the wire will attach to the contact that touches the tip of your plug you insert. The shield will attaach to the part that touches the sleeve of you plug. inspect the jack carefully as they can be foolers. When stripping the insulation back un-braid the shield a little to be able to solder it to the jack. Use a pair of needlenose and a helper to keep soldering heat from going up the braid and melting the insulation of the internal wire. Test unit before putting cover on.

NEVER trust colors... with an ohmmeter you can tell which is the common lead by testing... find the lead that has continuity to EITHER switch independently... It is PROBABLY the blue one... this will be the "sleeve" of the plug. The schematic documentation is so bad the jack wiring cannot be decipered as to which contact is the tip and the ring. HOWEVER once you find the common of the switches and connect it to the sleeve you have only two choices for the other wires so just try them.

You can also take the back off the pedal to find which color goes to BOTH the switches... connect that one to the sleeve. Try the other two wires for proper operation before final soldering.

Although that sounds impossible, here is the link you will need:http://www.bcrich.com/learn_controls.asp You will need some desoldering braid, a soldering iron, needle nose pliers and some thin guage solder.

The negative battery terminal will go to a black wire and that will be soldered to one of the volume control cases. That makes the remaining wire easy. The negative terminal pole on the battery is the larger round one.

Follow this diagram.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=hum_sing_sing_1vol_1tone_5w

I have had this same problem with mine, since the adapter jack is loose it's probably broken loose from the circuit board inside. I had to carefully dis-assemble and re-solder the adapter jack back to the circuit board. This is un-fortunately a weak point on some of Zoom's pedals, when you or if you get someone who is good at soldering to do it for you ask them to beef the solder joints up a little to help keep it from coming loose again. I re-did mine and I've never had another problem with it.