Removed the 6 screws from the bottom, including the 2 screws under the pivot wheels and still cannot open unit. What else do I need to do to open the unit up?
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To disassemble the Russell Hobbs 15081 steam glide iron, you have to remove the two hidden screws on the handle. To locate the first screw remove the two adjacent blue buttons which are each held in with two hidden clips front and rear, so lever out with small screwdriver or similar. The second hidden screw is under the pivots of the water inlet lid.(I broke one of the plastic pivots but no big deal). Then using a thin blade, separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half of the handle. A bit of force is needed as there are more plastic clips. I started from the rear.
Once the top half the handle is removed, other screws become visible, so teardown is not hard, just note which screws go where, as they are different lengths.
My problem was that some of the screws/bolts were so corroded I needed to drill them out. The thermostat was also corroded, which probably explained why the thermal fuse had blown. The element was fine.
Sunbeam Model: gcsbcs-212
The outlet cord was bad (pinched from falling off the ironing board) inside where the cord goes into the iron.
1. Remove Bottom Sticker
2.Remove 2 Screws
3. Pry off Sunbeam Back Cover
4. Remove 2 screws
5. Pry off Cover
6. Remove Cord Clip (2 Scews)
7. Cut Cord and Strip off ends ( do I cable at a time) Red Circle
8. Crimp back and Test.
To disassemble the Russell Hobbs 15081steam glide iron, you have to remove the two hidden screws on the handle. To locate the first screw remove the two adjacent blue buttons which are each held in with two hidden clips front and rear, so lever out with small screwdriver or similar. The second hidden screw is under the pivots of the water inlet lid.(I broke one of the plastic pivots but no big deal). Then using a thin blade, separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half of the handle. A bit of force is needed as there are more plastic clips. I started from the rear.
Once the top half the handle is removed, other screws become visible, so teardown is not hard, just note which screws go where, as they are different lengths.
My problem was that some of the screws/bolts were so corroded I needed to drill them out. The thermostat was also corroded, which probably explained why the thermal fuse had blown. The element was fine.
I have a Rowenta garment steamer. It will turn on but no steam comes out. Does it need to be cleaned from the build up of iron, etc. from the water? If so, how do I go about this?
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
no, its not the Aquaspeed 170, but Aquaspeed 150.
i succeded to unwrap the housing, but did fail in disconnecting or dismounting the power cord terminal.i could not disassemble the Iron to reach the heater.
to dismantle,
step 1 unscrew 3 visible screws.
step 2 lift the heel cover away, by unsnapping 1 hooks at the right and one at the left side of the heel cover. i used thumnbnail to deform the heel cover for not to wear out the snap-in hooks.
step 3 remove the dischalk stick (don't know the right wording in english)
step 4 lift the top cover (which covers the spray jet part), 2 hooks at both left and right, use thumbnail or flat screwdriver, start at the top hook.
step 5 take off the spray and steam buttons, 1 hook at the front side, 1 hook at the outer back side
step 6 take off 2 screws: one keeps the upper half of the handle, the other fixes the water container at the heater plate. Attention: when unmounting the container, and turning the iron upside down, a small (4mm diam, ~10 mm length) silicone cylinder part will fall out, some kind of actor of a bimetal thermo switch in the ground plate, which probably controls water flow (not the electric thermostate)
so far so good, i got my problem solved, but would like to know how to disassemble the container from the ground plate and how to replace the cable?
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