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Morphy richards comfigrip 40715 how to disassemble?

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Phil - I have the same problem. Can't see how to dismantle it at all. Did you ever get a solution?

Thanks
Chris

Posted on May 10, 2010

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I've just successfully taken apart a Morphy Richards Comfigrip 40751 Steam Iron.
- take photographs as you go.
1. Remove two security-headed screws in the back plate.
2. Prise off the back plate.
3. Lever out the two steam buttons on the top.
4. Remove the screw now exposed.
5. Prise off the white oval piece.
6. Remove the top screw now exposed.
7. Remove the two screws by the cord entry.
8. Prise off the top half of the handle.
9. Disconnect the steam tubes by first removing their little collars and then pulling them off their pillars.
10. Remove the single screw behind the steam control rods and the two screws either side of the filler hole.
11. Prise off the lower half of the handle and extract the light and remove its little cover.
12. Prise out the heat control knob in the middle. Watch out for the little spring that makes it click, and watch out for the little metal rod across the lower connector for the knob - don't lose them.
13. Remove the screw at the very front, the screw under the heat control knob and the two low down at the back holding down the body (the two brackets for these were both snapped off on mine - araldite did the job.)
14. Remove the body from the soleplate. Note the positions of the rubber steam thingies that sit on it.
Now test with a multimeter to see what's failed.
The element should have about 30ohms resistance; if's it's open circuit it's blown; buy a new iron?
The thermostat should have more-or-less zero resistance as it click together - mine was terrible and took a lot of emerying to make contact again.
The thermal fuse is clipped down to the soleplate inside a sleeve. It should have more-or-less zero resistance. If it's open circuit it can be replaced. Unscrew the clip and bend it open to remove the fuse. Check the part number and see if they've got one at Maplin or wherever - usually about 60p. To replace it, you need to squeeze the contacts onto it - solder won't work here.
When rebuilding, watch out for the little click spring on the heat knob. For the little rod under it, I stuck a tiny bit of blutak inside the pillar to hold it in place as I re-assembled. The steam tubes cross over and go under sort of tunnels at the sides of their piece - I told you to take photographs! I had trouble with the screw under the heat knob. I must have mixed them up and the ones I had left by then were too short.

Posted on Apr 25, 2012

  • Madhweshg
    Madhweshg Nov 20, 2014

    Thanks for the details was heplfull

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