Want to replace thermostat of ge chest freezer fcm7duaww

normally tight i use a pair of good pliers

I not 100% sure but believe this is the power light so it should remain on when the freezer calls for cooling and go off when satisfied. If the chest wont stay cold then it sounds like the stat is gone. If it is digital, there may be a power card issue but most chest freezers are run on a standard thermostat with the capillary running up into the base of the unit.

same as last post... I not 100% sure but believe this is the power light so it should remain on when the freezer calls for cooling and go off when satisfied. If the chest wont stay cold then it sounds like the stat is gone. If it is digital, there may be a power card issue but most chest freezers are run on a standard thermostat with the capillary running up into the base of the unit.

Wiring diagram of the chest freezer turned into chest fridge. The junction box is not required if all connections are made inside the fridge service compartment. Active (A) connection passes via latching relay terminals
inside the thermostat.

Additional information can find HERE.

Hope helps; tell us news.

Check the bulb, check the tabs within the socket, check the door light switch.

Please, unplug fridge when testing these. We'd like to hear from you again.

Good day,
They do a good job of hiding them, but it should be in the machine compartment near the compressor.
Not too hard to remove, but you must use caution, in removing the long skinny capillary tube that is inserted into the tube that runs into the cabinet. NO, IT IS NOT A WIRE. It carries a small refrigerant charge inside and if broken, the control is ruined.
Note: My experience, is the problem is a small loss of refrigerant charge in 90% of the cases, not the thermostat.
If the thermostat will not shut off, and the unit runs for in excess of 24 hours, the interior temperature should be colder than -10 degrees. Check first.
The purpose of a thermostat is not to turn the machine on, it's purpose is to turn it off.
If the freon charge is low, it will not reach the sensing capillary tube of the thermostat described above.

This sounds like the freezer stat is gone. If it is digital, there may be a power card issue but most chest freezers are run on a standard thermostat with the capillary running up into the base of the unit. Whilst sourcing the part, put a standard socket timer on to the plug to stop the unit running all the time.

I asked a local repair shop. Just pull ******* the sensor wire and it will slip out of the tube through which it runs. Run the new wire which is attached to the new thermostat thru the same tube. Prior to purchasing the thermostat, I tested with a ohm meter for continuity ( there was none) and jumped the attaching power wires. The compressor ran verifying the problem with the thermostat. Thermostat cost $47.00.

these frigidaire made freezers are notorious for having restrictions in the sealed systems that will cause exactly what your describing.

what happens is oil moves around in the freon system and pools up in the capillary tubes and the freon is not able to flow properly. if the unit is under 5 yrs old then should be inwarranty to sears. if its over 5 then probably cheaper to purchase a new one..

in order for the "stat" to sense the coldness of the freezer box it needs to be within the chilled space. it is probably held on by a couple of clips on the underside of the freezer compartment on the evaporator plate.