WELBILT COFFEE MAKER MODLE PW-412 THE BOTTOM PLUG IN SHORTED OUT. THE PLASTIC BETWEEN PLUG IN PRONGS WAS GONE. WE HAVE USED THIS ITEM FOR LESS THEN 1 YEAR. WE BOUGHT IT UNUSED ON EBAY. HOW CAN I GET IN TOUCH WITH WELBILT?

Do you have something else plugged in to the same outlet while you are cooking? This could be a major problem. If not contact maker.

Hi there
It is called the waveguide ocover and is made from polycarbonate

Maybe it's the fuse. See my answer to a similar problem here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t3899338-manning_bowman_coffee_percolator

Many coffee makers use neon bulbs to indicate that power is on. These do burn out after a while, but replacement is usually somewhat difficult. In this case, the coffee maker still works; you just don't have the immediate visual indication.

Many of the urn-type coffee pots have problems with the power cord breaking where it goes into the pot. To fix this, you need to remove the bottom, cut the cord where it is broken (on the outside of the pot), strip it back to match the part of the cord remaining inside the pot and crimp on new terminals of the same kind used on the original ends. The hardest part is squeezing the strain relief clamp where the cord enters the pot to remove it, and putting it back on. Study it carefully as it you remove it from the cord so you know how it works. To avoid a repeat of the same problem (and buying a new cord), be careful not twist the cord or bend it too tightly at the strain relief. NOTE: one of the wires in the power cord has a rib on the outer jacket. This is the neutral wire. Make sure it connects to the same place inside the pot as the original neutral.

Other failure points are at the power switch, or (rarely) the heater element. I've seen a programmable coffee maker with a burned-out relay (magnetic switch in a black plastic box on the circuit board). The clock and timer worked, but the heater wasn't getting any power. That part is about $5.

The easiest way to identify the problem is with an ohmmeter. Start by removing the bottom of the coffee maker (unplug it first!). Identify the heater terminals (the heater looks like a small version of the one in your oven and has either screw or slip-on terminals). Connect one of the ohmmeter test leads to each heater terminal to measure the heater resistance (typically 5 - 20 Ohms). If you have a basic (non-programmable) coffee maker, turn on the power switch and measure the resistance from each terminal to each prong on the plug. You should read either nearly zero ohms, or the heater resistance plus not more than a few tenths of an ohm. If you read open to one prong of the plug, you are on the track. Trace where the wire from that heater terminal goes. If it goes to the power switch, check the resistance of the power switch in the on position. If the reading is more than a couple of tenths of an ohm, the switch has dirty contacts, or it's broken or burned out. If you have a good connection from the heater to the power line side of the switch, but you get open from there to the hot side of the plug, the power cord is bad. Likewise, if you get an open reading from the other heater terminal to the neutral side of the plug, the cord is bad.

Programmable coffee makers have a similar troubleshooting procedure, except that you have to check for live AC voltage with the pot plugged in - this is not something to try if you aren't trained in the safe way to do this.

I know that most grocery stores sell a "cleaner" or two next to their coffee filters/coffee makers/kitchen appliances section. These are usually heavily acidic, and will do a great job of cleaining your coffee maker. I've always been wary of acid in my coffee though, so I just use white vinegar. It'll do a decent job of cleaning out the coffee maker. Run a 1:1 mix of water and vinegar through your coffee maker, drain it, then run water through at least twice.

Scaleing/deposits building up in a coffee maker are signs of imperfections in the water. All tap water has it, but if you don't want to worry about it, use bottled or filtred water in your coffee pot. Plus, your coffee will taste better!

For what I remember, there is a small hose that runs on the bottom of the coffee maker. This streches and loses it's elasticity over time. I have cut it shorter, re-attached it, and then used a zip tie to keep it in place. Hope that helps!

I have a kneading blade for the ABM6200 welbilt bread machine. I sent it out to have it teflon coated and it is really great. Unfortunately my bread maker broke and I never installed the blade. I have the blade and the manual if you are still interested.

This is to do with an error in the warming plate function. You may be able to cure this error by completely unplugging the coffee maker from the mains lead and then plugging it back in and trying to brew. If this does not help I would suggest trying to contact the manufacturer to see if it is still under warranty.

Hope this helps and thank you for usinf FixYa

First of all - can you plug other devices into the outlet w.o. a problem (like a coffee maker or hairdryer?)

If yes, then it's the microwave, not the curcuitry in your house.

any electrical device that spraks should not be used until it can be serviced by a qualified technician. chances are if it's less than a year old, you may still be in warranty. Especially this being a microwave, please be careful, as a short could mean that you might get exposed to dangerous rays. if it is not an expensive microwave, i'd recommend purchasing a new one. if it is costly, contact the manufacturer to inquire about warranty - if out of warranty, bring it to a local appliance place and get a quote for repair. please do not use the device until you have done one of the above.

You have a shorting membrane keypad.

If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

Keypads are no longer available for these, so the oven should be replaced.

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