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Anonymous Posted on Sep 26, 2013

Fisher paykel GWL10 doesn't drain Previous problem

Fisher paykel GWL10 doesn't drain Previous problem may be connected: When washer was filling with water it was screeching. Taking off the washer hoses turned up that the cold water screen had been pushes aside and sand-like particles were on the inlet valve entry; I cleaned off and the screeching became intermittent, more frequently on regular load, but didn't totally disappear. I noticed a grinding noise when moving the tub like it was rubbing on sand when I moved it back and forth, there was dirt (sand?) on the tub ring. I figured the sand would wash out over time. After 2 previous washes completed OK, the last wash stopped at rinse cycle and didn't drain. Moved up to spin and still didn't drain. Shut off machine, restarted at rinse, walked away and when I came back machine had shut off still full of water. I restarted at rinse and noticed a low humming as if it was trying to drain but couldn't. I shut it off. The diagnostic mode instructions confused me - one said that only the LOW on the water level should show after pressing/holding Temp button (down or up), the other that only HOLD on spin should show before using spin (up or down) to have hold and slow show on the spin to get the diagnostic code. Initially I got LEDs left to right: 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 (1= LED, 0= no light) and the last (spin) LED was blinking RED. I couldn't find a code in the listing that I have. I then presses/held Temp up & power and got the hold only LED on the spin speed and the with the buttons until I got the HOLD. The default code now is 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 with spin RED but not blinking. According to diagnostic this is a machine size error. I reset the size, as instructed, with hold/press TEMP up & Power to get to HOLD on spin, then pressed Power. Yet, I still get the same diagnostic code indicating size error. I unplugged machine and reset twice but get same code. Is there another way to reset the machine size so I can get the diagnostic code that I need about the not draining problem? I think the problem is the pump because the "hum" seems like the cycle tells to drain but it can't. What is the best way to check if the problem is a clogged pump (because of the previous sand issue)? I replaced the diverter 4 years ago when I had a similar "no drain" problem. Could it be that the diverter is defective again? The original diverter worked for 9 years. thanks for any suggestions.

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Lon Cottle

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  • Contributor 27 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 26, 2013
Lon Cottle
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Easy to check the pump but you need to have a bucket handy. Tilt washer backward pump will be on the right side. Remove and clean. Watch out for the water!

1 Related Answer

Anonymous

  • 639 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 31, 2008

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel Smart Drive 051

Peace Friend,
ngfam1 At your service!

With an error code the only way to find and to repair this is,

First unplug the washer and wait a few minutes then restart it like rebooting your computer when its acting strange!
If it corrects the problem GREAT!!! WE WIN!

If not only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses.
Like we used to be able to fix my own cars, but not today they need diagnostic equipment!
Below I referred you to a great service nation wide!

If none of these tasks remedy the heat problem then here is a good company that's found nation wide.
A&E Factory Service
A&E has schedulers available to take appointments 24/7
And they do warranty work too, for most manufactures!
1(800) 905-9505

You will be fine
Bless You ngafm1
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OF

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Gwl10 us won't fill

there's a few possibilities here.
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when you press start, does it beep like normal? if not, you have a start button fault.
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At this stage i can suggest that the inlet valve may be faulty & giving off this burning smell.open the control box & see if one of the 2 inlet valves look distorted or brown or burnt looking.I'm wondering if it's not filling very fast also,this could also be an indication of the valve.
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I have a gwl10 and during the wash cycle there is water coming in but the drain pump keeps running during the fill cycle.

The pump itself is supposed to run during the fill portion of the REGULAR cycle. It is supposed to be mixing the incoming fresh water with your laundry detergent and pouring the solution on your clothes as the tub rotates slowly. If the water is draining out of the machine, then there has been some sort of issue with the DIVERTER VALVE. It either has a broken lever on it or an object has become wedged in it, holding it open all the time. If you try the PERMA PRESS cycle, you will probably find that cycle will work, as it does not use the recirculate function.

I would check the diverter valve first. You can tip the washer back and remove the hose clamps with no tools and shine a light up inside and look for an object. You also can inspect the lever and will clearly see if it is broken.

If the washer needs a diverter valve, the part number is a 426862P and is easy to change. You can get them from Fisher Paykel Parts:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/111-4/Diverter-Valve-GWL10-11-15.php

They also have downloadable service manuals (but I have pretty much told you what you need here)
Here is the GWL10 manual:

http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/115-15/GWL10US-Service-Manual.php



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Both of you most likely are getting a "RPS Sensor Fault"
On a GWL10, when the motor rotor position sensor fails, it will act exactly like you describe. Many techs incorrectly replace the machine control or the water inlet valve(s). The RPS sensor is much cheaper. If you consult the tech sheet located under the control panel, you will see the fault code for RPS failure and I would bet the farm that the sequence of LEDs displayed when your washer faults out matches exactly with the RPS fault code.

The RPS sensor for GWL10 and GWL11 models is a part # 420296P and canbe purchased direct from Fisher Paykel Parts:
http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?categoryid=111&productid=5

The procedure to replace it is a little involved but a handy person can do it. It would be best to consult the factory service manual and again, that can be purchased from Fisher Paykel Parts direct here:
http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?categoryid=115&productid=15

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check out another website. ths.gardenweb.com/forum/laundry for other fix it tips on FPaykel.
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Code F1 indicates that Flood switch has been
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Reconnect the drain hose to the waste pipe.
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Ensure the inlet hose is connected securely.
Other leaks. Turn water and power supplies to the
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If the machine still has water in it, the drain pump is jammed or there may be an obstrution in one of the hoses. It is most likely the drain pump. Switch off the machine at the wall and unplug it. Tilt machine against a wall and look underneath. On the right you will see the drain pump. It looks upside down. Unplug the wiring harness to the pump and remove pump by turning it clockwise while at the same time releasing the little white clip that holds the pump in place. Clean thoroughly and replace pump.
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