ive posted the FSM link here 100 times.
you can google and youtube 1000s doing it.
its a standard service part (short lived)
97 GC, here , ill spoon feed yah.
go here
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#serviceand then pick cooling system.
note careful there is more than one engine uses on most cars made
so getting help not knowing that, is well, impossible.
the 4.0L (wild guess) I had 3 jeeps that engine. and 1/2 million miles.
- Drain coolant , same chapter.
- see top FAT RAD hose? (of 2 hoses big , its the top one)
- follow it to the THERMOstat housing ,
- unbolt it, BAM the thermosat fell out.
- watch out 4.0L are very hard to BURP
- put in a new STAT wax side to water jackets, and bleed /pin hole up hill.
- I will not tell you how to clean gasket surfaces, google it.
- my stat says, 180F or more on the side, NEVER LESS,ever.
- I reverse above. but i fill the engine with AF until it leaks out
- and burb it.
- test for leaks 3 times. and every morning for 3 days, if savvy
The 4.0L is very hard to burb so dont forget to make darn sure the water jacks are full of AF> 50% and then all hoses above that.
THE FSM shows even raising the front bumper high on the
early 4.0L I-6s cars... it was so hard. my 99 was more easy.
but do make sure you run the cold engine with rad cap removed
then add AF 50% until its really full.
as the engine heats, the AF will overflow the rad neck
dont panic, just cut the engine and put the cap on,
the coolant is not too hot yet.
now driver around the block, 1 lap
come one, and let it cool, (side tank , clear, is 1/2 full)
now when 100% cold, take off the rad cap
makes add AF again. on the old 4L ive had to do this 3 times.
then make sure hoses in the side expansion tank are not
missing ,fell off or , cracked, or there will be problems.
i never trust any side tank, until ive tested it fully.
once it works right, it will keep the rad full. but keep that in mind.
ive seen many drop the suck tube and render that bottle useless.
my new jeep that made this impossible. with cast in tubes.
genius design that. 3.8L.
Intermittent Connectivity:
NOTE: Before following the steps in this article, check if your wireless computers have stable connection when connected to other wireless networks (hotspots).
This article assumes that all wireless computers are experiencing intermittent wireless connection with the Belkin router.
Frequent wireless disconnection can be caused by different factors such as:
Wireless interference within the network.
Wireless settings of the Belkin router are still set to default.
Firmware is corrupted.
Reducing Wireless Interference
If you are experiencing frequent disconnection from the wireless network, it helps if you check the following factors, all of which can greatly affect your wireless signals:
your cordless telephone system (or even your neighbors’), or other nearby equipment. Try to change your router’s channel to 1 or 11 (the default channel is 6) and restart the wireless computers.
Physical obstructions: Your router or wireless computers may be losing connectivity because of physical obstacles such as walls and floors. Try to move the equipment to different locations to find a better link.
Placement of the router: Belkin suggests that you place your router as high off the ground as possible. When placing the router in a high location, leave a distance of two feet between the router antenna tips, ceiling, and wall. If your signal passes through multiple floors, place the router on the upper-most floor, and high up in the room.
Surroundings: Keep the router away from large metal objects, bodies of water (fish tanks, bathrooms), and any electrical equipment including television sets, microwaves, radios, etc.
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