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Rich Posted on Dec 21, 2012
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My Hoover Frost Free A class HTK 95AA has a trickling water noise coming from the back around the cooling pipes when switched on. The compressor gets very hot although the cooling pipes do not, is it

The trickling only starts after about a minute of the compressor starting

1 Answer

raj somaiya

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  • Master 5,370 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 22, 2012
raj somaiya
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This is list of refrigerator problems, which is normally faced in refrigerator.
You can go through the details, by clicking the link below:---

--------------
Refrigerator is not cooling properly?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html
-----------
Both refrigerator and freezer not cooling properly in refrigerator?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/both-refrigerator-and-freezer-not.html
----------
The ice maker not working: ---
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/ice-maker-stopped-working.html

------------
Compressor not running on refrigerator?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/10/compressor-not-running-on-refrigerator.html
--------
Water dispenser not working on refrigerator?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/10/water-dispenser-not-working-on_19.html

-------------

Ice maker stopped making ice?

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2011/10/ice-maker-stopped-making-ice.html

-------------

Water Overflows in Ice maker and freezes inside?

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2011/10/water-overflows-in-ice-maker-and.html

-------------

How to replace Ice maker assembly?

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2011/10/how-to-replace-ice-maker-assembly.html

These will help.
Thanks,.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 04, 2006

SOURCE: Fridge/freezer

Denis, frosting back to the compressor is usually a sign of refrigerant overcharge. The fact that you noticed one of the other lines opened could indicate a wrong charge. You will need a cfc certified tech to check this thing out. This way he can check for a proper charge, restriction or a weak pumper...Catriver..post back.

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Anonymous

  • 51 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2008

SOURCE: Frigidaire model # FRS26ZNHB2 side by side not cooling

T
From your description, you have a bad evaporator fan motor. The part number for a replacement motor is #5304445861.This is not a direct replacement but is more reliable.Remove everything in the freezer, take off the back panels and you will see the fan.
If there is a large frost buildup on the coils and the fan is turning you have a defrost problem. If that is the case, please call me at 334-347-0000 and I will walk you through it.

Anonymous

  • 828 Answers
  • Posted on May 10, 2008

SOURCE: Fridge not cooling compressor works intermitently

If the compressor starts and runs for a few seconds it could be the relay. Or it could be the compressor itself has failed. When a compressor starts and runs for a short period it is possible that the relay contacts are arced together which would have both the start and run winding in the motor engaged at the same time for more than 3 seconds. This would result in the compressor tripping out on the thermal overload. It depends on what type of relay your compressor has. If it is a thermal relay, unplugging the refrigerator for about 15 minutes would allow the relay to cool off and reset.

Anonymous

  • 958 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 07, 2008

SOURCE: Whirlpool 20.8 Top won't cool neither refrigerator nor freezer

that's about right, if the compressor is drawing more than 4 amperes, then it is no good.

A reminder also to check the condenser for dirt and debris that could have accumulated at the front, this is a major contributor to compressor failure. check also the fan near the compressor. it should be running at the same time the compressor runs.

that's nice to hear from whirlpool....

good luck tapperal,

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 23, 2009

SOURCE: Refrigerator not cool freezer working


Rick,

This is the generic answer. Use the hair dryer (below) and reset the defrost (look for instructions from Sea Breeze)

Most of these units work with the freezer providing all of the cooling and a thermostat in the refrigerator section controlling a fan in the freezer (where the fan directs cold air from the freezer section to the refrigerator section via a duct in the back).

Look at the rear area of the refirgerator and locate a vent. This vent receives cold air from the freezer to the refirgerator. If you feel cold air coming out of this vent, then there may be no problem, just wait a few hours and recheck the refrigerator temperature.

Look at the rear area of the freezer and locate a vent. This vent provides cold air from the freezer to the refirgerator. Shine a bright light into this vent. You should see fan blades (possibly black plastic). If there is ice on the blades, then you have a defrost problem, and look to other posts on this site for how to manually defrost (or reset the automatic defrost). If the fan blades are rotating, then there is probably a blockage in the duct. Direct a hair dryer (warm setting) through the rear freezer vent and check to see if there is very warm air flowing out of the refrigerator vent (which indicates that the duct is not blocked). While using the hair dryer, you may be able to see the fan blades rotating.

If you do not feel warm air flowing out of the refrigerator vent, then run the hair dryer for a few minutes. (this was my problem, I saw no moisture drip from the vent, which led me to believe that it was more of a dry ice buildup, or that the ice was evaporated (desublimed to be technical).

If there is air flow and no ice buildup on the fan, then reset the automatic defrost. If this is not your solution, either the thermostat or the fan motor is the problem.

KWJ

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MY TFH24PR SIDEBYSIDE WON'T COOL PROPERLY SMALL AMOUNT OF ICE ON FREEZER BACK WALL

Hi,


Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Good luck in solving the problem.................

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Food spoils in the fridge. i have put a manual thermostat to see the temp. it goes on spoilage. the compressors are fine. it has also leaked water from the pipe connection. the top vent gets to hot. i have...

Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.


Hope this helpout.....

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The refrigerator was unplugged for about two months and would not get cold when I plug it back.

Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.


Hope this helpout....

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