I have two clarion APX401.2 amps powering a 6 speaker and 1 subwoofer system on my boat (all clarion) and when I took my boat out to pretty choppy water I think they they may have got a little wet. Now, if I try to play a cd only the bass works and none of the speakers play any noise. The green power light on the speaker amp flashes about once per 2 seconds and a weird noise comes out of the speakers at the same tempo as the light flashing. Can someone please help me try to fix this problem before I have to replace the amp? Thank you.
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Re: 400 watt amplifier not working
Disconnect all the speaker wires from the amplifier that runs the 6-speaker system. Switch off the amplifier or disconnect the remote turn-on wire, then re-connect it. Does the power light still flash with no speakers connected? If so, your amplifier is probably damaged. If not, then connect one speaker and see if it plays. If it doesn't, disconnect the first speaker and connect a different one. If the first speaker plays, continue connecting the rest of the speakers until you find the one that's causing the problem.
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Best bet is to take your boat to a qualified Marine Audio dealer (generally not a boat repair shop or marina), or to a good quality Car audio store that is insured to work on boats (separete insurance usually).
When it comes to boats, you need lots of power and speakers.
First thing to do is make sure what you have is properly installed.
Then determine what is "distorting" .. is it too much base, purely volume or what.
Most boats we do (wakeboard style and river boats) we do:
40-75 watts RMS per speaker
4-6 speakers in boat
1 10" or 12" sub with 200-300 watts RMS
Tower speaker if requested with 75-125 Watts RMS per speaker
In general higher speaker impedance is safer than lower impedance for the amp. Don't expect anything impressive re: audio output from a passive (unpowered) sub if your HTS says it pushes only 25 watts. Without frequency bandwidth and distortion noted the spec is virtually useless as a comparison.
The BU-1 is a powered sub that accepts either RCA Line Level or HIGH LEVEL amplifier power. If you use the latter, impedance is a non-issue because the input feeds the BU-1's internal amp, not the speaker directly. You should be okay.
Perhaps if we knew some specifics about the HTS we could do more than guess.
try to unplug each speaker one by one while playing it. There can be a defective speaker that grounds out at the speaker terminal or internally causing the amp to go into protection causing all the speakers to go out.
A better solution would be
1: Get a seperate amp for the sub itself
2: Run 2 speakers on ch 1 and 2 speakers on ch 2. I assume your speakers are 4 ohms, in stereo mode that amp is stable to 2 ohms. The bridge the subwoofer on ch 3 & 4. That will work if you just want to use that amp. If you need more help you can email me @ [email protected] Hope this helps...
All amps aren't created equal. More exspense amps put out "cleaner" power. You need to know what the RMS power rating is for the amp at 8 ohms and 4 ohms. Also, is the speaker an 8 or 4 ohm speaker? How you wire a speaker or speakers (series or paralell) can change the ohms (resistence) which will change the power put out of the amp. Also, I'm assuming you are setting it up in mono?
It would be safe to use an amplifier
slightly lower than the maximum rating of the speaker. In this
particular case, 350 watts or lower would be just about right for each.
If you are wiring the 2 subs in parallel and powering them with a
single channel amp, then a 700 watt bridged would also work.
1. your charging system is your only limitation for watts but you can add plenty without upgrading it. i'd say 1,000 watts max on the stock batter and alternator with large power and ground cables of at least 4 gauge.
2. yes. using your subwoofer rca outputs.
3. for a subwoofer you should always ad an amp. i'd say a 3-400 watt amp is fine to match up with you kenwood speakers. you will need a small sub to fit in there or maybe one slim enclosure behind each seat with slim 8" subs