HI i bought a Toyota camry 96 v6 and there is a short. Every time i turn on the car the 10a fuse would blow it's the instrumental panel fuse it would go out and the windows wont go down and the instrumental light wont turn on also the radio wont work. I fallowed the short to the relays in the engine bay the a/c mgn and fan no.3 relay was bad so i replace it but the fuse would still blow. So i unplug the condenser switch where the a/c mgn relay was connected to and the fuse didn't blow but the fan wont turn off now im stuck what to do?
SOURCE: 1994 2.2L toyota camry radiator fans do not work
Hi.....
The Normal Temperature Range to the Fan Start is: A/C ON 181 F.
A/C OFF 199 F. When the Engine Reach this Temperature the Fan should start.
OK. Do this simple test.
1---- Start the engine, Desconnect the ECT Switch located on the Radiator,
See if the Fan come ON. If yes, if not go to step #2
Connect the ECT SWITCH and leave the car Running and with a Temperature gage.
See the temperature, if the Temperature go more than 199 F.
Turn the Engine OFF.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and check for Ground at the WHITE/BLACK wire.
If ground exist, Replace the ECT switch.
But if not. Check the wire for any damaged, and the ground at the Front Left Fender.
Repair as need.
2---- check the Fuse link RDI FAN . 30 amp.
Check the Fuse link CDS FAN 30 amp.
Replace if need.
And Return to step # 1.
Check the Radiator fan Relay, Rad fan relay 2 and 3. Replace if need.
Ok. I hope this help on your question.
I can give to you the WIRING DIAGRAM of the Fans, But I need a E-MAIL adress to do that.
Thank you for use fixya....
SOURCE: 1993 Toyota Camry V6 Timing Settings
Get a T belt from toyota. It has 3 white lines on
it and and arrow mark. 2 lines are solid and one is broken. Put the
arrow facing away from the engine. The cam gears have a dot punched
into them near a certain tooth. This is where the solid white lines
will line up with. The crank gear will have a dot also. It will line up
at 90 degrees from the top, towards the front of the car. This is where
the broken line will match up with. With the belt installed with all
lines on their proper dots and arrow away from the engine, you valve
timming is correct.
Of course you need to remove and compress the tensioner also. I assume you know this already since you didn't ask.
SOURCE: 93 corolla 1.8 No start Blown ignition fuse
I had a prolem like this one time a while back. what i did was got the wiring diagram and checked everything that was running through that 30 amp fuse. on the one i was working on it ended up being an injector wire pinched under the valve cover and it didnt short out till the car was driven til it warmed up and expanded after the valve cover gasket was changed. hope this helps!
SOURCE: 1998 Toyota Camry tail lights and backup lights won't work
Hello.
I have a solution for you, as I see your same issue in my shop quite a bit...There are two possibilities:
You may have a broken wire. This is a very common issue.
Open up the trunk lid, and look at the hinge on the driver side. You will see a wiring harness, in a plastic tube, attached to the arm that holds th trunk lid to the car.... Remove the tubing, and follow the wires towards the back seat area. You are probably going to find a wire that has been broken, from the many actions of opening and closing the trunklid. Splice and resolder the wire, and you should be fine.
The other issue is the tallamp failure sensor may have burned out. This too is rather common. Open the trunk lid, and pull back the inner carpeting on the driver side of the trunk. Locate a small box (it will be white or blue), on a brace. The box is closer to the quater panel sheetmetal. Remove the box, and take it apart. If it looks or smells burnt, you need a new sensor.
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