Red eyes My dad is using an old Nikon FG with a Viviter 2800 external flash and can't solve the red eyes problem. The flash user's manual is less basic at best and does not provide any solutions. Has anyone found a way around this?

How to use the internal flash as a commander is in the manual from page 189. The manual is online.
There follow 10 pages about all different settings for the remote flash mode. I could not find how to use the internal flash as a commander and switch of the commander itself. On my Nikon, I can use the light as a commander and when the picture is made the build in flash does not fire.
You always see the internal flash fire, before the picture is made, because it has not only to tell each group what setting it should use, but it also has to trigger the external flash groups. If you want to use the flash as a commander while photographing persons, you can use a Infra Red filter (little one) in from of the internal flash, so the subjects won't close their eyes. Look for the Nikon SG-3IR filter. I think Canon must have filters like this.

Certain coolpix cameras can accept an external flash, other models cannot.

If you have the built in flash, and that being your question: you need to activate it via the buttons on the back. Look for one that looks like a lightning bolt- that is your flash button. You will get choices of red eye reduction- three flashes, Aperture priority, flash always and no flash. It will be illuminated on the LCD screen as to the flash status,

If you are referring to an external flash, there should be a hot shoe on top of the camera, or a port for Flash Sync. If you have neither of those your camera is not able accept external flash- however you can use an external flash in "slave mode" if you have a flash that has that featurbe built in. Then it merely becomes a matter of placement to position the eye of the slave flash so it gets illuminated fromt he small flash on the camera.

The pre=flashes are for reduction of red eye and also for TTL indormation for camera to wotk properly with flash. Read Flash manual and some info in camera manual

This flashing is often an indication that those areas are 'over exposed'. This could be because you have manual settings such as 'EV +1'etc., or 'spot metering' when you took the picture centred on a dark part of the scene. You could check this by setting the camera to automatic to see if it solves the problem. If it does, have a good look through the menus and user guide to see what the various manual settings are.

The flash settings include one where the flash is off, and there is usually a button to toggle between the automatic/off/forced flash/red eye suppression etc.

I imagine your son's wrestling events are held in school gyms with lighting that is less than ideal. If you are taking pictures without a flash then the blurriness you describe could well be due to a slow shutter speed. Your camera is using a slower shutter speed to gather enough light, but your subjects are moving fast enough to cause motion blur in the picture. Either you increase the aperture (larger aperture = smaller f number), increase the ISO number (equivalent to film speed), or you use a flash. If you do use a flash, the built-in pop-up flash is only useful for close shots probably no more than 15 feet away or so. A speedlight flash, such as the Nikon SB-400, Sb-600, SB-700 or SB-900 will project the light much farther.

If you set your ISO manually to 1250 or 1600 and put your D90 on shutter-priority (the "S" on the left dial) then you can use the right rear dial to set your shutter speed and the camera will set the aperture for you. To stop the action you will likely need at least 1/125 or 1/160 of a second. Go as high (fast) as you can--the limit will be your lens. The standard "kit" lenses are mostly F5.6 as the biggest aperture, and that is limiting without a flash or daylight. You might also try a monopod--a one-legged stand--to help steady your camera for you.

Sure. Nikon makes a line of what they call Speedlights. The SB-400, SB-600, SB-800, and SB-900 will give you full capabilities. Older models will give you somewhat less capabilities.

Third-party vendors also make flash units compatible with the D60.

External flash units tend to be more powerful than built-in flashes, which makes sense considering their size and additional batteries. They also move the light source further from the lens axis, reducing red-eye, improving shadows, etc. They also may allow bounce flash, which further softens the light.

Description: Sleek and stylish, the exciting new Nikon One-Touch Zoom 90QD offers real zoom power in a lightweight, easy-to-use design. The One-Touch Zoom 90QD has a sharp, clear, 2.5x zoom lens with a 38-90mm range and a macro mode for shots as close as 11 inches. The One-Touch Zoom 90QD features a built-in automatic flash with five versatile modes (auto flash, anytime flash, flash cancel, slow sync and red-eye reduction). The active infrared autofocus, infinity focus (for landscapes and faraway subjects), real-image zoom viewfinder and fully automatic exposure control all help to ensure clear and balanced photos.

Depth 2.1 in. Film Type 35mm Width 4.6 in. Height 2.5 in. UPC 018208018789 Battery Type 1 x 3V Lithium Battery (CR-2) Weight 7.84 oz. Self Timer Yes Camera Type Point and Shoot Focus Type Autofocus Minimum Focus Distance 1 ft. ISO Range - Automatic Setting ISO 100 - 800 Red Eye Reduction With Red Eye Reduction Zoom Size 2.4 Auto Exposure Yes Min Aperture f10.5 Waterproof No Max Aperture f4.8 Zoom Lens With Zoom Lens Zoom Range 38 mm - 90 mm

User Manual can not be found up to now. Very soon will be available.

The old series Vivitar 2800 flashgun has a very high trigger Voltage, that can damage your D60's circuitry. Even measuring the trigger voltage with a voltmeter is not a solution since you can't rely on the voltmeter to indicate the peak voltage.

Hi - You can download the manual from the link underlined in blue below:

FinePix F10

See page 37 to turn off red eye:

FG's are pretty tough old cameras. You can use a cloth and a lenspen brush, but be very careful of the shutter curtain...its delicate and if you damage it you might as well get another FG ($30 or so on Ebay). My first Nikon was an FG-20...still works like new.