Freezer Had 15 hour power outage, when power was restored it went back out in 2 minutes. Now freezer will not run and electronice control panel is displaying E

If the sides are hot, look at the defrost timer. Sounds like it has stopped running with the defrost elements on. The compressor has a safety switch on it that opens either if the compressor gets too hot or if it pulls too much current when starting. If your power flickered a lot before coming back on, that triggered the safety switch. Now that it's running normally, I wouldn't worry. The defrost timer is your problem now.

Unplug it and see if it resets after you wait 5 minutes and plug it back in. If the outage was caused by a surge, it may have damaged the control board.

compressors use a small start / run capacitor to start the compressor
modern fridges do not like spikes from power outages and many power boards and electronic components fail because of this and I am inclined top use a surge protector before the fridge cord plug
I went google and typed in --fault code 88-88 for samsung fridge model rf26aewp and the first site up is error codes /messages/ blinking
the site is support-us.samsung>popup>iframe
there is a detailed answer there with a list of fault codes as well and what they indicate
there are other sites that also refer to the fault that you have

Hello Yellow, thank you for your post!

I understand that your Frigidaire freezer is dripping water out of the corner of the door. It is possible that with your power going out the heat may have caused the gasket to warp. Do you see any frost build-up? The water that is dripping could be coming from condensation within the freezer. I would recommend checking the gasket to see if it is allowing warm air to enter the freezer.

I recommend that you visually inspect the door gasket for defects such as gaps or tears. You can also use a dollar bill to test the door gasket. Place a dollar bill in between the door and the body of the freezer. If the dollar bill pulls out with no to little resistance, you may need to replace the door gasket. A faulty door gasket can allow warm air to enter the compartment and cause frost to condensation or a leak. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Hello AnnArborMom, thank you for your inquiry!

I would recommend you adjusting the temperature to a lower setting to see if that would start your compressor to cool. If that is not successful I would contact a professional to come and properly diagnose your appliance. It could be that the power outage shorted the main control board or relay. I hope this is helpful. -Matt

First make sure there is power to the plug at the wall. If not check the breaker. If power at the plug, the power outage could have been associated with a power surge that killed your refrig.

Hello max ryan,
I understand that you had a power outage and now that power was restored, you have power inside the appliance but the freezer is not freezing and you can't hear the motor running. I would double check the breakers and make sure that they are on. You can also check the Temperature Control and make sure that it is not in the OFF position. If these solutions do not work, I would call the manufacturer for more help.

-Best Regards-

Unplug it for about 10 minutes to allow any capacitors to dissipate. Switch back on. If alarm starts straight away, suspect faulty controller, probably caused by the spike in the power supply

You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

if it is an electronic control freezer then the electronic control sounds as though it has failed if there is no digital read out