Sear Kenmore stove ignition not working I have checked the ignitor and its good how do I test the control board

One of the relays on the relay control might be faulty, in that case a new board is probably required.
Or the igniter has an issue...Igniters are the number one cause of an oven not turning on. Igniters open the safety valve and heat up to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. It can be tested with a multimeter for continuity and replaced if necessary.
I got this from: https://www.electrafixbc.ca/appliances/stove.html
Check it out for more info on your oven issue. Good luck!

If both top and oven are not igniting, then most likely you need an ignitor board. I should be located behind the left side of the console as you are looking from the front of the stove. I will look it up to be sure. There should be a tech sheet on the back panel of the stove to help in checking the boards.
Thanks/Mike

The F10 error means that the high temperature sensor is reporting a runaway temperature and shut down to avoid a potential fire. Try unplugging the stove or tripping the circuit breaker to reset the code.

If the error recurs, unplug the stove (or turn off the circuit breaker) again. Look at the broiler and bake elements with a flashlight. If it has any damage (breaks, char, melting), you will need to replace the element. Check where the elements connect to the oven and replace them if there is any charring on the back wall.

If the elements are undamaged, you need to check the wiring to identify if the problem is at the elements, the high temperature sensor, wiring or the control board. You will need to access the wiring from the back of the stove. Disconnect the wires to the heating elements. Then disconnect the wiring connections at the high temperature sensor and the control board. Without a model number, I can't be completely sure of the resistance that should be seen at various points. Please post a comment with the model number of the stove and I'll try to confirm the expected and faulty resistance values. Most likely, the resistance should be under 50 ohms but above zero between the left and right contacts of the elements and the violet wires in the wiring harness at the control board. The high temperature sensor should probably have a resistance between 1,000 and 1,200 ohms. If the resistance is high, you'll need to replace the appropriate parts. (Note: if the wiring at the control board gives a reading similar to the resistance of the high temperature sensor, the control board is the likely suspect.)

I hope this helps. If your stove is under warranty, contact Sears/Kenmore to fix the issue. If you aren't comfortable testing the wiring, contact Kenmore for a service call.

Cindy Wells

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

check the main power terminal block and make sure the power is correct.if the power is correct then you will need to change the main control board.how ever unplug the unit and check all the wiring to the control board and the bake and broil elements.if the unit is gas then you may need to replace the ignitor unit if it does not draw enough power during the light up it will not open the gas valve.replace the main main control board still applies if the other items check out fine.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

There is an upper and lower burner, since it's not heating at all it's either your gas control valve or your temperature control board.

Note: If you have Sears service come out to repair your stove beware, We had them fix our stove. They told us there would be a $65 charge for them to come out but if we had the repair done it would be included in the repair price. Instead after they had our stove torn all apart they told us we would have to pay both charges or they would just leave with our stove in piece and we would still owe them the $65.

Wow, this post is going to be extremely late. Actually, I was able to get a new control unit for my Kenmore gas range from Sears Parts Dirext for $156.06. That includes shipping and tax. The burners work without it. We just cannot use the oven until the new board comes in. It's very easy to replace. Remove the panel screws on the back (just the top) and you have access to unplug the unit and remove the 4 screws holding the assembly in.

Hi and welcome.
Just because you see a glowing ignitor that does not mean it is "good". You need to check the circuit amperage to be sire. Weak ignitor are ultra-common for the appliance technician to see. The minimum amperage required to open the gas valve is around 2.9 amps. if you have access to an amprobe, read the amperage draw thru one of the ignitor's lead and you will see very quickly if it is good or not. Bad oven valves are much less likely than a weak ignitor. Many do-it-yourselfers replace the oven valve because they see the ignitor is glowing and assume that the ignitor must be good.

Hope this helps.