Top 20 Samsung RS2630WW Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

If it has fan to deliver cold air, and it is not working, cold air is stuck on the begining. So your fan could be dead. And I suppose, that compressor is running all the time. Even compressor could stert freezing if fan does not deliver cold air in fridge. The other option is, that there is not enough gas in the compressor. In this case compressor vould not be freezing, but line, going out of compressor has to be hot, if it is not, there is no gas.

hi,i want to tell you i don't work on samsung fridges,they just don't give techs any info,you have to work with samsung to get any info but on any other fridge if the strip is hot or really warm either the condenser coil on the bottom is clogged with dust or the condenser fan isn't running to cool off the compressor and blow the hot air across the condenser coil,so remove the bottom front kick panel and see if the coil is clogged,they have had alot of problems with the computer board to so if the board is bad the fan might not be blowing fast enough to cool it down but check it to see if the fan is blowing,pull the fridge out,remove the bottom panel and check the fan,i've seen other machines do this,and the fan has to be ordered,if you get a house fan and blow it on the back where the compressor is it should help cool it down so you don't cook your compressor and you won't loose any food until you get it fixed.i hope this helps you out and good luck,call whoever you bought it from or call samsung and they will send a certified tech there to help you out or go here to look up parts,if it is the fan motor you can replace it if you want to give it a shot.go here put your model number in and look up parts https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/search.html?q=lt608

In the back there is a radiator and it is frozen solid, you have to deice it, unplug the fridge and take the cover off and remove the ice build up, hair dryer should do the trick, or leave it unplugged for few hours. Tony Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tony_a41fa0b801734e2f

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Refrigerator-Repair-Help This link should help. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Could be the defrost element. If it does not work and melt the ice off of the evaporator, icing will continue and serve as an insulator. Freezer and refrigerator temps will suffer. If you unplug the unit and let it defrost for a day and plug back in it will work fine till it freezes up again.

boil kettle and place boiled water in a bowl and place in freezer. Repeat until freezer defrosted

if there is no cooling power you have a problem with sensor and you need to replace it

Sounds like the defrost drain is clogged. Look at the rear of the unit. You should see a plastic tube underneath the freezer section that runs down to the drain pan. Its most likely blocked with food. Carefully remove it and clear out the line then replace it and it should stop freezing up. Make sure its unplugged from the power before you work on it. If its frozen up, let it defrost before you try removing it. You can use a hairdryer to speed up the defrosting, but be careful using it around any wet areas.

the alarm indicate that the door is open check the door switch and check if the door press the switch or not I think the door latch didn't reach the switch

you don't you replace it

A SLOW WATER FLOW IS USUALLY THE RESULT OF A CLOGGED OR INHIBITED WATER VALVE LINE OR HOSE. IF THE LINE IS FROZEN OR HAS DEBRIS IT WILL SLOW THE FLOW

Start by turning off the ref. Pull the plug.

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts. MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.

Possible bad freezer fan motor. I need more information such as brand and model number

could be something as simple as a filter change (there needs to be 20psi to function) or as bad as the solenoid control valve. This can be heard to click on/ off for the dispense water cycle.

same as last post: Could be something as simple as a filter change (there needs to be 20psi to function) or as bad as the solenoid control valve. This can be heard to click on/ off for the dispense water cycle.

Turn off ref. for 1 min.

Might be, the compressor is loose, now is it loose at base where it is fastened or the bearings are loose.

The door should be held on to the box by adjustable fixtures at top and bottom. One or both may have come loose. Look it over on the and bottom of the door. There is normally a cover over them that you will need to remove to access the mounting screws. Good luck.

First, get a $10 voltage tester. Since both wires are black, it may not matter which way you hook it up--if that is your problem. still, you can find the hot,and common like this:You'll need a patent ground. If the unit is grounded, just touch one probe to the metal.with the compressor running, carefully work the sharp tip through the insulation of one wire ( makes a very small hole in the insulation that poses no hazard). If the voltage is consistent with your other hot readings, then that's your hot (110/120). if it reads lower when the compressor is working, then that's your common (white). You should get the greatest difference (voltage drop in common line) right when the unit starts.or, just call Samsung.