20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGR5636L Gas Dryer Questions & Answers

You are on track that is you're issue and the solenoids should be replaced, you seem to be very able but if a video is needed I can send one. Thanks and Good Luck!!!!!!

You will need to replace the timer. It has some sticky contacts. Here is the timer to order.

The gas dryer assembly consists of a sensor, a ignitor, and a pair of solenoids. The flame sensor must have continuity when cold to fire up the ignitor. The ignitor must be hot and out of the circuit so that power can open them coils. So how do they do it? The control themostat is mounted very near the blower and filter housing. As the air passes by it on the way outside it judges air temp. When the temp drops below 105f the control powers up the gas assembly. The sensor, the ignitor, and the coils are all energized. The ignitor is wired cleverly so that while it is being powered by the flame sensor it takes up most of the energy required to open the coils. Once it gets heated up to ignition temp the bimetal inside the black box (sensor) shuts down power to the ignitor. It is so hot it is now a therm sensor itself. Full power goes to them coils and they can now open the valve. As the flame is ignited the 3rd wire on the holding coil is kept open by the heat from the ignitor which becomes a themo generator. Fascinating isn't it? My home movie:More enlightenment If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

go to www.repairclinic.com and buy it.God bless you

I tested the flame detector, the thermal fuse, the coils, the gas supply, and it was the safety valve. Everything you guys told me to replace were fine. Even the glow element was fine. The safety valve does come with two new coils, so I have a spare set for the future. Yes, it is important to clean the lint and dust, which accumulates in large amounts. I basically took the entire machine apart (good you YouTube on this) checked all wires, checked continuity on the parts you guys mentioned, took the tumbler out to get easy access to the flame element, which is similar to a gas forced air furnace with a glow element instead of a pilot light. The flame detector can be disconnected to test the glow element (this part is very fragile, so remove gently and with care. If you test it this way, once it glows, disconnect power after 5-8 seconds. If you end up replacing the safety valve, it also has a gas supply valve, along with the main supply balve, make sure the are both off during installation, and don't crack the glow element. Connect the flame detector with the white wire inside an up, and the blue wire outside and slightly down. The clip to caps on the wires. The coils can only fit where they belong: one is shorter than the other, and there are recess holes that allow each coil to fit in the housing properly. The wire harnesses connect the the three prongs protruding from each coil. The glow coil also connects to a plastic clip harness of two wires easily. Plug in the thermal fuse on the back and it fits into a recess and holds in with one screw and connect the two orange wires. I doesn't matter how the plug in. Reinstall the tumbler carefully so the felt edges fit over the round lip on the inside back of the dryer. Once you set it on the two roller wheels, gently pull the belt so that the tumbler gently rolls allowing for the felt to fit properly over the lip. Once this is done, to hold the tumbler in position, attack up about a six inch pile of blocks under the timber to hold it in place while you hook up the belt to the motor shaft. To do this, note how the tension pully fits next to the drive shaft. Carefully pull the from the left side, down and under the tensioner roller, then push the tensioner toward left, make a loop in the belt, pull it down and make a little loop rolling under the tensioner pully and pull the small loop over the motor shaft and the it will be connected propery (you may want to use your phone to take a photo before you first take the tumbler out. Once the belt is on, check the tumbler again and you will see where the belt touches the tumbler and roll it so the belt is even and straight. It won't break. Now put the front of the dryer back on carefully ensuring the door of the dryer is also propery fitted to the felt lip. There are two screws that hold this panel to the sides of the dryer There are two springs on the bottom of the dryer opener panel. Reattach them to the holes and hooks. You can do this by hand. The bottom front panel, which is opened by prying open the top side on each side with a big flat head screw driver. Leave it open so that you can monitor the restart. The top, which was openned with a small putty knife by openning the plastic clips that hold it down (use a small flash light to find those black clips, and there are two small protruding prongs--place the putty knife above those prongs theme push hard and the clip will release, same on both side in the front, about an inch in from each edge). Before you close the top, like a fold-up and down lid, reconnect the dryer door cut-off switch. It has two wires, one on each side of the part, plug each wire back in, and then reattach the retaining clip to the notch on the top edge of the dryer front. You may need to push hard to close the lid to the clips. Now, before you close up the back and reattach the vent hose, plug the dryer in, open the main gas valve AND the gas valve on the safety valve you just installed and is accessible on the right lower side via the lower front access panel, which is open and hinged lying down. Replace the lint screan and replace the two screws. Set the dryer to high heat and turn it on (be prepared with a fire extinguisher and be able to cut power and gas if something is wrong). Watch for the glow plug to glow, which takes about 5 seconds. If it clicks and stops glowing, you still have a problem. However, after another five seconds, it should fire up and produce good flame. Make sure the tumbler is moving properly, and if so, it is fixed. Reattach the back panel with the seven hex screws Slide the dryer back in place and reattach the vent hose, which should be metal, using a hose clamp to make sure it is securely fastened to the vent pipe. Make sure the vent hose is properly connected to the vent going outside. Use duct tape to ensure a tight fit to the vent, and if there are any holes in the metal hose, use metal tape to patch them. I learned this one the hard way, but now I understand how a dryer works, so feel free to ask me if you have a similar problem. [email protected]

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

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you first need to turn the screw on the gas valve clockwise to close it,then replace the l.p. orfice to the propane orfice on the burner tube and put the enclosed sticker on the gas valve that it is now set for propane gas operation

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

you have to clean out the dryer,do this once a year if it's gas.unplug the dryer,remove the vent line,if it's a long run blow it out with a leaf blower,first make sure there's nothing like a screen or something on the outside duct then blow all the lint outside,next you have to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,then vac out the lint in the cabinet where the motor is then with a shop vac blow off the motor and blow out the cabinet and all the gas parts,do this once a year and your clothes will dry on time,your dryer parts will last longer and most of all you won't have to worry about having a lint fire

check the weels in the back

DOES YOUR DRYER HAVE THE LINT SCREEN ON THE TOP? IF SO, REMOVE THAT AND TAKE TWO SCREWS OF(CARE NOT TO DROP IT INTO THE VENT). PULL THE TOP PANEL TOWARD YOU LITTLE BIT AND LIFT UP, THERE WILL BE TWO 5/16 SCREWS INSIDE FRONT PANEL, REMOVE AND UNPLUG THE LID SWITCH CONNECTOR, FRONT PANEL WILL COME OUT. THE GAS VALVES AND COILS ASSEMBLY WILL BE ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT. UNPLUG AND TAKE THE SCREWS OFF THE BRACKET AND REPLACE COILS. CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON COILS, IT SHOULD READ 1.3 TO 1.9 OHMS. THE ONE WITH THREE TERMINAL, CHECK OHM FROM MIDDLE TERMINAL TO OUTSIDE TERMINALS.

[email protected] 714-334-1998.

Pull the dryer out and unplug the dryer . Then remove the back panel . On the blower housing , you will see a 1" ling white piece , with 2 wires going to it . Disconnect the wires and hook them togather . Plug in the dryer and start it . If the dryer heats , replace this piece ( thermal fuse...pt # 3392519 ) .

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101