20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGR5636L Gas Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

It's likely one of the coils is opening a break in the coil as the coil heats up. This coil will shrink when cool and be able to run again. The number for the coil kit, which will replace ALL the coils, for your machine is 279834.

Disconnect power and turn off gas before working on this dryer. Working on gas dryers is not recommended for people who are not professionals.

Disconnect Power. Lift Cover on lint filter. Remove two Phillips screws taking care NOT to allow them to fall into the blower housing. Place putty knife in the seam between the top and front panel about 2” in from either side. Push in on clip while pulling control panel forward and tilting putty knife handle up, all at the same time. Same on opposite side. Raise top all the way.

Looking down inside dryer on left and right see a 5/16” hex head screw about 6 inches down. Remove each side while holding front panel in place. Pull top of front panel about 3 inches forward from sides and then pull up. This will disengage the front panel from lower pressure clips and allow you to turn it sideways and expose the dryer interior. Take careful note of belt configuration BEFORE removing it. Draw a diagram of its travel.

Motor and idler pulley for dyer will be on right. Gas components will be on left. Replace All coils with Kit Number listed above. Take care not to touch or hit the ignitor or you will be replacing it also. It is VERY brittle.

Service on gas appliances should be undertaken by professionals only due to the danger of gas leakage which can cause fires or death by asphyxiation.

Reverse process to re-assemble.

Check the gas valve. The springs on the valve can become faulty and won't hold valve open.

Sounds like inadequate air flow through the machine. In order for the any dryer to function air is forced through the machine and outside. If the discharge is blocked or obstructed in any way the moist air will not be removed, and the clothes will not dry.

Disconnect dryer from wall and clean the wall outlet and and dryer discharge pipe.

Also, if you are trying to force air higher than 6 feet up the wall from a basement you will need a booster fan on the piping.

Are you certain the door is closed? If it is closed, you may have a defective, loose or broken door switch. The machine will not start if it thinks the door is open. You say it is closed and it may well be closed. If the switch doesn't tell the machine the door is colosed, as far as the machine is concerned, the door is open. You will probably have to remove the top and/or front of the machne to check this out.

Let me know if this works for you.

A

the soot is coming from the flame at the gas heater box the drier needs to be converted to propane the flame is too large without the conversion kit installed and thus creates soot at the vent. contact a local repair place for this one it can be tricky.

what is this number? what is the question or problem?

check the high limit cutoff stat and if you see the igtn glow red and a click after the problem is in the gas valve

More than likely you have a burned up heating element. There is a remote possibility that you have a blown circuit breaker or fuse in your house. The blower is wired for and only requires 120 volts but the heater element requires 220 volt service. Usually there are two circuit breakers in your house breaker or fuse panel that provide power for the dryer. One of them may be tripped/blown and the other one may be ok..still on...and providing power to the blower. So...check to make sure there is not a blown fuse or circuit breaker tripped. This is the easy solution if it applies but probably the heating element is bad and will need replacing.

You need a new belt. Whenit squiles it heats up the belt. Then the belt sticks and gets traction. It will break before long.
Please rate solution

The exhaust is clogged.
Clear or replace the vent pipe and openings.

The clog is often found where the pipe exits the home. Sometimes the whole pipe has built up lint and needs top be replaced. Often times the end is just clogged with lint, birds nests, or other dibri and can be cleaned.

Many states require a metalized pipe to meet code because the plastic pipes can be a fire hazard in situations such as yours.

If the hot humid air cannot be vented properly, the moisture stays in the dryer and the heat just builds up until the high temp limit switch cuts the unit off.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=LGR5636L&siteCd=WHRCOM
This site has 6 variations of LGR5635L, user guides, setup instructions, warranty guides and parts manuals. Also, I think there should be a wiring diagram on the inside of rear cover. Hope this hekps.

check your start capacitor on the motor its probably weak or the start windings could be getting bad on the motor

check for tripped breaker and proper voltage, next check to see if turns on if your getting air to the outside vent if ok the you need to open the unit up (unplug it FIRST) your be looking for the thermal fuse and or the cutoffs these will be attached to the blower housing assy ohm them out and also if electrical one check the heating element as well most cases this will solve your problems

Many dryers have several safety mechanisms to prevent them from overheating and potentially catching fire. It is my experience that these are usually in the electrical circuit with the heating element and, if one fails, would simply not dry your clothes. By not running at all, I would first check the door switch to make sure that the post or tab that presses it has not broken or bent such that the dryer 'thinks' the door is open.

coils on gas control get hot and stop working you will need to change them...thumbs up

watch this... If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

HI, Most squeaky noise will come form the idler pulley. it may have excessive bearing clearances or , the pulley may just be damaged. i recommend inspecting it.

Access to the idler pulley varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports. Reach in to the belt and give it tug. It should be firm and tight, and have only a little give. The belt should go under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Lift the idler pulley toward the motor to relieve tension on the belt and remove it from the motor pulley.

Turn the idler pulley wheel, it should turn smoothly, quietly and without any wobble. Inspect it for cracks or uneven wear. If the idler pulley does not maintain proper tension or is damaged it should be replaced. Depending upon your model, the entire assembly or just the wheel or bearing may be replaced.

If you can hear/see the motor running, but the drum does not spin, you probably have a broken or loose dryer belt. You can easily determine this by opening the top panel and looking at the belt. Just lift the lint sheet cover on the top of the dryer and and pull out the screen. With the cover still open, locate and remove the two screws. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will lift up. The belt should be seen wrapped around the drum. If the belt has broken or has slipped off the idler pulley, it may be fitting loosely around the drum, or lying on the cabinet bottom. If so, the following instructions explain how to access the interior and replace or reinstall the belt. Replacing the dryer belt on this model dryer involves the following steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.
2. With the lint screen door open, remove the two screws and lift the top panel.
3. Unplug the door switch conector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.
4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.
5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. If the belt is broken, this may cause the idler pulley to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To install a new belt and re-install the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram H.

Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws. NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you. PS Appliancepartspros.com has some excellent exploded view diagrams of your dryer, along with parts listings that you cna use for reference as well.

no. some of your duct must have come loose