IGNITER AND GAS VALVE WONT WORK - Whirlpool LGR5636L Gas Dryer

see if you have 24 volts to the brown and yellow wires on the gas valve if wires are loose it wont work either if no voltage to gas valve bad pcb board if voltage to the gas valve bad gas valve

Is the gas turned on at the stop valve behind the range? Assuming the gas is on, the igniter can glow but not actually be working properly such that the control valve does not open or the valve may be failed. There are electrical measurements for the valve and igniter and related circuit that can be made if you have a clamp on amp meter and a volt meter.

I would remove wires and connection one at a time and clean them carefully.Clean all terminals and check wiring for any breaks or cracks on insulation. I think you probably have some debris inside the gas valve that is interferring with the valve opening freely. Unfortunatly there is not much to be done other then what I've mentioned except for replaceing the valve. Good luck and thank you.

OK, I think the flame thing may be an igniter. So the inducer turns on, the igniter glows but the gas valve does not open so there is no ignition. Sounds like you may have either a bad gas valve or a bad circuit board. You will need to check for 24 volts at the gas valve. If you get voltage but no ignition, replace gas valve. If you get no voltage at gas valve, replace the circuit board.

The igniter works but gas won't light because there's no gas being ignited at all. The gas valve solenoid coils are weak or broken preventing the valves to open and allow gas to fire up. Replace both solenoid coils and everything will be fine like new. The coils are located sitting on top of the gas valves and there are two of them. It is a cheap and easy task to replace them. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve.

One thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on and the igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure(burner does not come on) then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad. You can also verify that the oven run-away valve is not closed. This valve will be located at the back bottom of the range at the gas regulator. There will be a tab on the regulator housing where the gas pipe goes to the oven. This tab will lift up to close gas flow to the oven. Sometimes these valves can stick causing the oven to stop working. You can try moving this tab back and forth to see if it loosens any debris in the valve. Move the valve while the oven is on and you will be able to hear the burner come on after moving the valve if that was the problem.

Remember be very careful doing any of these procedures. Good luck and have a safe holiday.

Even though the igniter is red, if you are not getting gas it is almost 100% sure that the igniter is simply not getting hot enough. A new igniter should get that valve to open and you will be baking like crazy.

try oven if working gas valve system possible ok lift off covers to expose igniter looks like a little wire that arcs a spark to ignite gas clicking is igniter trying to spark ,clean area of debris if any, if no spark will need igniter adjuster /repaired or replaced and gas valve checked for proper function

I am providing some links courtesy of www.repairclinic.com that will assist you in the diagnose/repair of your dryer.

Firstly, ascertain that you have made a positive heat selection on the control panel switch, then proceed onward.

Parts breakdown/disassembly procedures:
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Gas-Maytag-Style-Appliance-Diagram

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)



1. Gas Valve Coils image:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500awg-%3d%3di3479&PartID=3479

2. Ignitor image:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500awg-%3d%3di3018&PartID=3018

3. Thermal Fuse image:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500awg-%3d%3di516650&PartID=516650

make sure the hose is connected to the propane tank and that the tank valve is opened letting gas into the grill exhausts... and then light the igniter but make sure the release valves on the grill arent on max... start it on low to med.