Top 20 Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603 Built-in Dishwasher Questions & Answers

Hello! Please check the manual to this dishwasher. Hope it will help! https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/1261053/?page=12

If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device, in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts.

The flood switch is accessed by removing the bottom drawer. The flood switch cover is removed by sliding to the right. There is a release clip underneath about mid point of the cover.

Yes it would be in the drying cycle which goes for almost an hour after the final rinse

F1 error means flood switch at base of dishwasher under bottom drawer has been set off. This is due to water leakage. Unsure why the vibration is occuring. Can you please confirm by adding some information in the comments field if the F1 is displayed on both drawers or just one and which one.

Manufactured date is on label attached to washer.

This is linked to a rotor problem. Check this video and clean the cavity. If no difference then need to replace the rotor. http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2011/02/25/fisher-and-paykel-dishwasher-dish-drawer-repair/

The top dishdrawer is hard to open or close as the lid seal actuator motors are most likely faulty or lost power. The scraping is the lid seal touching the drawer lid. The F7 and F9 error are a result of this fault with the actuator motors. At the base of the dishwasher housing under the bottom drawer is the power board. From there the power is supplied to the controller and the motors. These motors move the lid seal into position. First turn the mains power to dishwasher off and then back on. See if this resets the motor position. If not you will have to call the technician to fix the problem. But if you are technical savy you could go to the base of the dishwasher and take the connectors of drawer 1 out from the power board and swap with drawer 2 which is working. If power board connection is not making any difference, then motors are the likely problem. Needs a lot of expertise to replace and adjust the motors.

Please be a bit more specific when you say "Won't Start". If you are able to set the program but nothing happens when you press the start button, then it is very likley the proximity switch that detects drawer close, is failing and not letting the controller start the cycle.

This is a serious problem. Most likely the base of drawer is leaking. This contains the motor and heater units. Refer this diagram. http://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/images/files/18816_a21ebb5ac093d66472cef9bd1e8f3b12

Sounds like a micro switch problem to me, telling the dishwasher that the drawer is open when it is not actually open.

If it is a double drawer dishwasher then there are two hoses one from top drawer and the other from lower drawer. They combine under the kitchen sink using a U adapter. Need to find which one is choked (assuming kitchen drain is ok and you have no inskinerator being used). Disconnect the U adapter from kitchen drain and empty tie to an empty bucket. Run each drawer and see which one is causing the block. (just a rinse cycle should be ok).

Do you have an air gap on the top of the sink? Pull off cover and check for debris. From the bottom of each DW to that air gap, hopefully the air gap is higher. Sometimes DW won't drain when they don't have a head to pump against. For instance, my DW is a regular model and from the pump to the air gap is about 3'. That is what ALL models are designed for. Check for kinks in hose. Follow hose from under each unit and use your logical head thinking (your brain) to see if it gets to a point where it can drain. Does it go to air gap (mounted on sink) then drain by gravity to a wye shaped fitting under your sink? Does it go from the DW to the garbage disposal? To an open site drain? Check all. And good luck with the units.

This is a controller fault and depending on the conditions of when it occured, may need replacement of controller itself or some sensor which feeds signal to the controller. Usually if fault keeps repeating or is permanently on and turning mains power off and on makes no difference, then you will need a technician to look at it.

It is very unlikely the inlet water hose is blocked. Most likely it has thinned out and needs replacement. You will have to take the bottom drawer out to get to it. Make sure the diswasher is disconnected from mains power and the water inlet under kitchen sink is shut. The plastic plugs on each side needs to be pulled out to get the front cover out and access the slide rails on which the drawer slides. Make sure the front cover does not fall as the controller and panel are held in it. Take the tub out and leave on floor. The water inlet valve and inlet hose are mouned at the back wall of housing.

Try to feel the temperature of water inside the dishwasher. If it is normal room temperature for the hot wash cycles then it is likely the heater is faulty.It is not easy to replace unless you have good experience with repairing dishwashers.

Have you tried to turn the mains power switch off and on to see if it resets the drawer to off state. Need a bit more detail of what you see on the display etc. when you try to turn back on.

It is a built in dishwasherPerformance Chip

The best place to start would be www.coolblueworld.com If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3