20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher Questions & Answers

Hey I dont know if you have this problem, but with mine the gasket seemed to be blocking the opening, so you could close it, but you had to shove a lot. The FP help line said to just unplug and replug in the unit. I did it and lo and behold it worked fine again. It did seem to leak a little bit the first time I reran it, but that seems to have gone away. Hope this helps

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 27, 2020

DW60CE dishwasher - E6 fault flood switch activated. After tipping the dishwasher on its side & it releasing its water from its tray, the fault cleared. I removed the bottom cover & inspected its internals for traces of a leak or evidence of leaking. I could follow the calcium or detergent trail from the rear water duct connection near the top feeding sprayer arm, down the back of the dishwasher & into the tray. The lock nut on the duct where it enters through the inside S/S skin had become loose & simply needed to be tightened.

Fisher and... • Answered on Aug 31, 2020

Just had the same problem, removed the excess water from the drawers, turned off the power, removed the bottom drawer by pushing in the lugs at the bottom of the drawer where it butts up to the drawer front and pulling out the drawer. Then had to mop up with 4 t-towels and half a roll of kitchen roll the water in the bottom of the machine housing. The water gets into the electronics at the rear of the housing and obviously warns you of this by the F1 code?. I removed the white cover over the electronics with a screwdriver by pushing it into a slot then sliding the cover across to the right, it is indicated on the cover how to remove it. I also then removed the screw on top of the PCB (printed circuit board) and lifted up the grey plastic base and wiped under that and the under side of the PCB. The PCB unclips on the left hand end of it and lifts out, try not to pull the cables out though. I then used a hair dryer as suggested by someone else on here to dry out any excess that you could not wipe dry, my daughters Hello Kitty hair dryer didn't last long though, she's not impressed! So try not to stick the dryer right in the housing to avoid overheating it. About 5 minutes did the trick for me, then re-assembled everything, turned it on and hey presto! It worked!!!! Its not that hard, good luck!!!

Fisher and... • Answered on Jun 01, 2019

Thank you so much to Greg for his advice. I had pulled out the motor and put back in with no result but after reading his post, I found that the tube from the sump to the pump was blocked and once that was cleared, all good. Saved me the cost of a serviceman as the last dishes that I had washed had fish so the water was rapidly becoming rancid and I had to solve the problem quickly.

Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 20, 2019

check the draw on the sides at the front as the draw sits on runners and there are tabs on the runners at the front which hold the draw on. hold the plastic tabs both sides and slide the draw past the slots on the bottom sides of the draw.

Fisher and... • Answered on Oct 05, 2017

I don't know if this will help. I had to work on Fisher & Paykel two draw dishwasher. The one problem was one draw would work but the other wouldn't. There is one board for each draw and one board in the base. The board in the base seem to be the power supply for the rest of the machine. I don't remember the model number and it has been years ago. Getting to the boards was not easy. I did the swap the two draw boards and the problem didn't move. So whatever the problem was it was in the draw. I found Fisher & Paykel had design the heating element as a resistor to drop the 110 VAC down to a voltage the logic/controller board can use turn to Dc voltage to run board. The problem I found was the heating element had opened. There was no power to run the board. Later there was also a cable problem the confounded the repairman. He had to replace the draw harness. My really big problem is the heating was on the ground side of the logic/controller board. The logic/controller board was on the 110 VAC side. So that if the heating element opened the logic/controller board would be floating up to 110 VAC. So any meter measurement on the board show 110 VAC. Even touching any part of the board and any part of washer you can get zapped. So be careful. It should the other way around so the board is at the ground side and heating element on the high side. If the heat element opened there would be no power to the board would be at ground level and no shock problem.

Fisher and... • Answered on Jul 31, 2017

I read the instruction manual as it was a lot cheaper than asking you guys.

Fisher and... • Answered on Jun 15, 2017

the top spinner is just clipped on. if you look at it you will see the cut in the plastic and it will just pull off. clean out the spinner and in the hole use some pipe and blow down it. on first cycle it should empty the dirty water out.

Fisher and... • Answered on May 25, 2017


Fisher and... • Answered on May 13, 2017

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