Pitco Frialator PIT40SN Deep Fryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Is this a new fryer first of all? If so, then whoever you bought it from should be working with you to help you get it fixed. If it's new, it's under warranty from Pitco... If it's not new, and used, was there any kind of warranty from Bargreen? If not, then you're screwed. A deep fryer that leaks, cannot be re-welded and to replace a leaking frypot is expensive and usually not worth the money it cost to do so.... A new 40 lb. fryer runs approx $750, and to fix one normally runs $5-600.00. So, you can see that it's more cost effective to just go ahead and buy a new one. Try and find a dealer who sells and deals with used equipment, and buy your new fryer through them. See if he/she will give you some sort of credit for the used one that leaks towards your new purchase... That dealer can then replace the frypot and resell the unit to another customer.

I would try to deal directly with Pitco... Find out who your sales rep is for your area/state and call them directly. They are supposed to help customers with issues like this and should be happy to help you, as long as it's a new unit.... I really don't understand why they haven't helped you so far, if it's new? You can also tell either or both of them that you are going to the local paper... That usually works with just about any company. If you need any further help, I'm in Cincinnati and our number is 888-542-5959. Thanks and good luck, Susan Restaurant Equipment Outlet

Adjusting down the gas pressure will only result to more soot formation inside the fire tubes and burners. Make sure that the burners are not clogged (from the neck up to the holes) so that gas will burn only on burner face. Check also that the fire tubes are clean and has no soot formation inside so that flame will go inside it and will not roll back. Make sure also that there are no obstruction on flue riser and no air directed on this area.
Readjust the gas pressure back to the standard as soon as the problem is addressed.
Regards.

Clean burners and orifices clean tubes heat tubes and also check the exit to the stack on the deep fat fryer. check pressure. fire off

I am going to say that the gas valve is the problem here since you have replaced the thermo coupling already.
the pilot valve and the main fuel valve are totally separate ---- it is the thermo couplings temperature that activates the main valve fuel flow. you can double check to make sure the coupling end is getting hot in the pilot flame and if it is I would say that the main valve is at fault. now one little trick that I have gotten to work now and again is to use a propane torch and super heat the thermo coupling tip and then try the main valve -- ( sometimes it just needs a small KICK ). but if it does not work then I would just replace the valve with a new one and all should be good because it sounds like everything else is good to go.
if you are still having problems -- please feel free to write me back here and I will help the best way that I can.

c...

Your problem is easy and frequent. The pilot light should heat up the thermouple which in return by the heat will keep the valve on for pilot light first and the burner light.

So either the pilot light is not reaching the thermocouple - this only if someone moves the pilot light

Or the thermocouple became weak and can hold the gas valve open - so replace the thermocouple with new one.

There is a very small possibility that the gas valve is faulty but you should replace the thermocouple in any case which is very cheap first and is the most possible cause.

Question moved from Misc HEAT FAILURE - This means the heating system has failed to respond, which can occur because a high temperature limit switch has been tripped and needs resetting. On gas deep fryers, "HEAT FAILURE" may display if the pilot fails to light or if the pilot flame is too weak as detected by the ignition module.

Pitco Fryer Error Codes and What They Mean - Parts Town

..

Trade Chef here. Dirty oil. Wet food. Adding too much at one time. Thermostat problems would burn food. Use a good quality thermometer IN the oil against what the dial says.

Replace the thermocouple.

Thermostat calling for heat.

Are you holding it in long enough? It takes between 20 seconds-1 minute. If it still doesn't stay lit, replace the thermocouple.

You turn the valve knob to "Pilot", push it in, and light it (use a long butane lighter-it's easiest) and keep the button pushed in for 20 seconds-1 minute. If the pilot stays lit, turn the dial to "On".

You have a clogged filter, clogged lines or clogged pump. Did you try to do this with the oil cold? If so, the pump has to work MUCH harder and may not pump. Clean out the oil from the entire system, looking for clogs. Manually filter the oil and pour it back into the system and try it again.

they are auto resetting they have fenwall devices fitted

Sounds like you has a bleed gas system and a tubing fitting is not tight.

The output flu should not impact this. What is impacting this is airflow from another source coming into the building. For example if a window is open on the windward side then airflow will rush in and exit through the flu. This could cause the problem. The other thing you should check is the gas pressure on the supply line. An indication that the gas pressure is too high is a gap between the end of the pilot jet and the base of the flame. Another concern is a venturi effect if the area between the hood and the fryer is too small.

NO, are you holding down the knob for about a minute while lighting the pilot? The thermocouple must get hot for the pilot to stay on.

Replace the top regulator plate and gasket on the gas valve, the four main burner orifices, and the pilot orifice. You need to remove the main burners to access the orifices and disassemble the pilot assembly to access the pilot orifice.

If you've changed the high limit and the thermostat, and you're certain that the wiring is correct, the gas valve is defective.

Drain the fryer. Cleaning the kettle will make things easier. Remove the thermostat knob and remove the two screws that hold the thermostat. Remove the two wires. Under the kettle you will see a double headed bolt with a tiny stainless tube running through them. Make sure that you do no confuse the one for the thermostat with the one for the high limit. Loosen or completely unscrew the small inner nut. Unscrew the large outer nut. Inside the kettle, locate the sensor bulb that corresponds to the thermostat. Remove the bracket and vertically straighten the sensor bulb. From under the kettle pull the sensor bulb and wire down and remove thermostat. Clean the fitting where you removed the bulb. Replace with new thermostat in reverse order. Avoid sharp bends in the sensor wire. Use Teflon tape on the large nut. The small nut is a compression fitting and does not need Teflon tape. Reclamp the sensor bulb and pull excess tubing from the kettle before tightening the small nut. Be careful not to cross thread the nuts. Do not over tighten the small nut. Refill the fryer and check for leaks.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.