20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel DD24DCFX6 Dishwasher - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Without the model number I have to guess.
Fault code 'f4' means "faulty temperature sensor or element".

Here is a link to User manuals:

http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?blockitemid=29

If this information was useful, please select YES to the first two rating questions. Good Luck and thank you!

check pump it may be cloged or be bad take off and check replace if bad

The best thing to do is to remove the rack,drawer completly,and close it up,see if it will come on,and run all threw the cycle.If it does,then put the rack,drawer on the track.The rollers could be,well,not snapped all the way on.It will be in that area somewhere.the rollers may be located in the wrong place,they may have been altered by someone when they fell off,and put back on.The height of the dish rack,is most likely the problem.Look where the rack rolls out on the back of the door,when opened all the way.It should line up pretty close,so that the rack pulls out of the machine and rolls out even.I hope this is helpful.If so,please let us know.Thank you.

Possibly, but doubtful that this is the issue. I see little reason that the door should change position after the dishwasher starts. You could apply pressure to the door at the point that it typically stops to see if this is indeed the problem...If it continues, you have your answer. You may also have a timer problem that is causing your problem. Particularly on older units, the timer would go out. Hope this is helpful.

Press and hold the key or lock button for 5 sec or till you here a beep to unlock. Or till the light goes out above the lock button. You can get your manual here just find your dishwasher.

http://www.fisherpaykel.com/dishwashing/

Good luck and please rate

F & P will give you a manuaul on line for free

There should be a white plastic tag about half way down the hose (the tag holds together the inlet hose, drainhose, and wiring harness).
The tag has a hole at one end, which the wire clips into- it can be a little tricky getting the wire into the hole, but there is enough lenght if you hold the drawer up and leave just enough room to get your hand and arm over the top of the drawer and clip the wire on. Check the tag hasn't been broken, because those wires don't usually just fall off.

if electronic one shut breaker off to this unit appx 1 min then this should reset the pcb microprocessor

You should be able to turn the feet by hand. If not, use an adjustable wrench or large pliers- you can turn feet from underneath dishdrawer without having to remove drawer as indicated in the installation guide

Hi,

The major reason for error code F3 is due to some issues with the Tub Seals. Please perform the following troubleshooting to resolve the error.
Remove bottom drawer you will find water has leaked and the flood switch has been activated. Remove power to unit and dry up tray with towels and hair dryer. Check drain hose and fill valve for leaks. The most common problem I have found is the tub seals. With unit back together and running pull on drawer and see if it comes out. (It should not come out) The boards may be burnt by this point. The bottom tray in the back has a plastic cover over control board, remove cover and inspect board for damage.
Thank you for contacting www.Fixya.com

521782 HANDLE BRANDED 920 BK SATIN

When your dishwasher door has a problem, check these:


1) Latch: The latch on many dishwashers is adjustable. If your door is easy to close but difficult to latch, adjust the latch to let the door close more easily. If you can't see any way to adjust the latch, yours may be fixed in a certain position. Check for other reasons for the latching problem.

If the latch has worn out in a way that makes it impossible for you to close the door properly, you probably need to replace the latch.

2) Springs: Your dishwasher has two springs that counterbalance the weight of the door. If either or both of these are broken, the door feels quite heavy and you need to replace both springs.

3) Hinges: The hinges are important to the door closing properly. If they're bent or deformed, you probably need to replace them. Once bent, only rarely can they be straightened well enough.

4) Door seal: If your dishwasher is new--or if you have just replaced a door seal--the door may be difficult to latch for a week or two. If the tightness persists, though, try adjusting the latch, if it's adjustable. If it's not adjustable, there's probably nothing you can do immediately. But try running the dishwasher on the highest heat cycle to help the seal conform to the door. Otherwise, the seal should compress over time.


thanks.keep updated and plse do rate this solution positively.

Hi there, Error U2 -
Possible Causes - Loading
Check loading to ensure no items extend
beyond the height of the drawer.
Good Luck!
neo

Time for a new dishwasher. Had the same problem. Tech came out and threw hundreds at it cause it was under warranty at the time, i didnt pay a dime and ended up buying new one.

Hi

If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher, check these:

Drain line/air gap A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.

Pump Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support. 

Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.

Drain valve and/or solenoid Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water. 

Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.

Belt One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.

Motor If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced. 

Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.

Timer Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.


Please do rate this solution as "FixYa" if found useful and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

first unplug the dishwasher for couple of minutes from the main power outlet and check out.

def, not the same piece, you can call the manufacture for the repalcement parts, if you dont have a local parts distributer( f&p direct best bet)