Vespa Motorcycles - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

do you pull the choke before start? -see picture or change also the spark plug with a new one

it's impossible - you need a new coded key, made with the brown master key (code on the plastic card)

the electric connectors of the rear blinkers are on the front bottom of the side panels and need to be clean (sandpaper) and put in the hole very tightly - see photos

you should change the roll bearings in the variator box not only the belt! -the complete servicekit (see pic 3) https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zPX_xWPt0Ck

Is fuel tap on? Is fuel filter blocked? Is the carb blocked?

Does kick start turn engine? I'm sure it does, is fuel getting to carb, does it smell of pertol when trying to start? Have you knocked HT cap off the spark plug? Did you get some cleaning fluid in the electrics?

No. Direct shaft driven from gearbox.

- the easiest way is to unmount the rear shock absorber (1 screw at the bottom) and rise the Vespa to reach the spark plug.... this is far better than to reach it from above....

- the easiest way is to unmount the rear shock absorber (1 screw at the bottom) and rise the Vespa to reach the spark plug.... this is far better than to reach it from above....

Do you have a 2nd key and if so have you tried it? Sometimes the key wears a bit, or maybe the key you are using is slightly twisted.

I think you are describing faulty contacts inside the ignition switch. The biggest problem I see and hear about is that many car owners insist on hanging multiple items and keys from their ignition switch. This mistake will shorten the life of the key cylinder and the ignition switch. You may notice that lights go out or stop working on your gauge cluster but if you wiggle the key slightly the light/s will return or flicker. There are other causes for this ignition failure. Loose, flayed, or over-heated plugs, connections, fuses, relays, or the ECU. But diagnostics will be needed to narrow down and correctly repair this problem. Please write back with any questions or findings. Please be as detailed as you can, good luck.

If you're talking about a main drive belt (the one that turns [drives] the rear wheel), drive belts are usually measures as width (how wide) and number of "teeth". An example is here: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/600-0541 this belt is 1-1/8" wide, by 128 teeth.

check how much oil pressure you have , may need to go dealer !

The oil sensor may be bad, or the oil level may be too low. If the motor reads a low oil signal or no signal it will not start to protect itself.

get your codes pulled first. find out what they are and before jumping to any conclusions

I have a 1987 Honda goldwing its running bad it idles really low and has no pick up when above 55 mph and hasc a spark knock like sound when idling back two plugs aren't showing nothingbut front ones are burning is t carbs I hope so

CONNECTION WIRES RELAY FUSES OR JUST REPLACE SPEEDO CLUSTER

Yes over flow

At this point, you are probably better off bringing it in under waranty because if its evident you messed with it, they might try to void your waranty. Thayt being said, have you tried running it with the gas cap removed? If the cap is bad it can create a partial vacuum in the tank and produce the symptoms you describe.

The realistic options I see are: 1) call a locksmith; 2) contact the dealer with your serial number. Be prepared to prove ownership. Of course you already know that when you get your keys back - ONE GOES ON A RING AT THE HOUSE, the other goes in your pocket.I don't know where you are located, where I live, a locksmith would cost about $75.00,US. Getting a key from the dealer would range up to $25.00 depending on the type key and how desperate you seem to be when you call. They MAY deliver,justifying the higher cost.