My plug for that goes to my regulator rectifier fried so now I have to hard wire it. I just don't know what colors go to what. I read the diagram but I have a aftermarket regulator so the colo

You are not going to like this answer but here goes. All Motorcycles, mopeds, scooters, quads, etc, that have have a stator to regulator/rectifier to battery generating system all have the same design flaw. They all have lousey electrical connectors. Heres what happens: the stator produces 204-220 volt ac current. The same thing that will run an electric dryer in your home. It's a lot of power. That power gets changed to dc current by the recifier and converted into about 15 volts by the regulator in the same unit. That's a lot of heat energy. If at any time the electrical connections become compromised by vibration, oxidation, dampness, salt, or dirt...you will see the wires fry. It's an over load...not a short. Power sports shops are well aware of this and are happy to charge you list price to replace the entire system for several hundred dollars. Usually between $800-$1000. You can get after market sets of the component parts and do it yourself and that's the only way I know of to avoid the cost & it still ain't cheap. Many moto-X riders replace the connectors with automotive plugs that seal out water, dust, etc with a recessed plug with a silicon gasket and seal it with dielectric grease to prevent oxidation. Like the plugs on a car's O2 sensors. Hope this has been helpful, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

hi see for an manuel from your bike.some have electrical,
schedule in the manuel,last page

hi, you must do 2 types of readings: using a ohmmeter, in DC mode and 20V range, chek the batterie voltage with the engine running (over 1500 rpm).
Then make another reading with your meter set to AC current , juste before your rectifier
The you'll know !! But my opinion goes to the rectifier.
Good luck

Try autozone.com. There are free diagrams in the repair section.
If you have a new ACDelco pig tail there will be letters on the plug (don't know if aftermarket plugs would have the letters). A wire diagram should show what letters go to what color wire.
If I'm not mistaken,
A=Tan
B=Purple
C=Black
D=Pink
(depending on which O2, the purple and tan wires could have a white stripe)
If there are no letters on the new plug then check the O2.
Also to be sure, the plug goes in one way, You should have at least one more O2 that you can check and see what wire goes where. They will all have basically the same color and plug into the O2 in the same way.

I'm sorry but I don't have a wiring diagram for that model bike. If the plug only has two wires in it, it makes no difference which goes where because the output of the alternator is an AC current and as such, has no polarity. This is the input to the regulator which rectifies the current into a DC current and then regulates it to between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. The larger diameter wire coming from the voltage regulator goes to the positive side of the battery either directly or indirectly through a circuit breaker or the positive battery cable.

Good Luck
Steve

Yes, it matters, you can miss match polarities...
...you are lucky it didn't fry the engine control module.

First disconnect the battery negative post. Then, unplug the two wires that run from the regulator to the front part of the engine. Follow the remaining wire from the regulator to the either the battery positive post or to the starter connection and disconnect that wire. Remember how it was routed through the engine and frame area. Unbolt the regulator and bolt the new replacement back up in it's place. There may be a "star type" lock washer between the regulator and the frame on all the mounting bolts. Put his washer back on or in the case there isn't one, put one on each mounting bolt. The purpose of this is to ensure the regulator has a good ground. If if doesn't have a good ground, it will not work correctly. Plug the plug from the regulator into the socket on the front of the engine and run the remaining long wire along the frame and back to where the original wire came from, either the battery positive post or the starter connection. Some people cut the original wire and splice in the new wire from the new regulator but I don't recommend it. It's a problem waiting to happen. Reconnect the battery negative post. When working with a battery, always disconnect the negative post first and reconnect the negative last. This prevents damage to the battery or motorcycle and possibly prevents injury to you due to arcing the battery against the frame ground.

Good Luck
Steve
Steve

Hi,
To check if you got a charging fault, get a multimeter and switch to voltage put across the battery. You should be getting at least 13.4 volts.
Turn lights on and this should fluctuate upwards. If your getting anything lower then what I stated you have a charging problem. Rectifiers and regulators can only really be tested of the bike with a specific tester. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Jason

That is the sign of a typical short. It is most definitely your problem.

The three yellow wires carry AC current from the generator to the rectifier. The rectifier turns this AC current into DC current and sends it back to the battery through the red and the black wires. I am not certain what the purpose of the 7th wire is on the new rectifier except that it may be used for thermal sensing of the rectifier - which would explain why it is mounted tight to the unit.
Of all the components that make up your Honda's charging system, the rectifier is the most likely to fail. The reason is usually excess temperature buildup - which causes the diodes inside it to fail. If you are running extra electrical accessories on your bike, this can cause the rectifier to overheat and die. Same thing if you frequently let the bike sit until the battery goes dead, the rectifier works hard to recharge it each time.
You may be able to extend the life of the unit by avoiding things that put extra strain on it, as described above. Also make sure there's nothing covering the cooling fins on the rectifier - or blocking airflow to it (dirt, that extra pair of gloves stuffed next to it, etc.).
Finally, there's one thing that will kill the rectifier instantly: connecting the battery cables backwards. That'll fry it every time.