Sorry but I need more details. I can not see what you see. Please write back and tell me what you did (Step by step) to prepare the caliper for new pads. I think it would be worth double checking your work and the caliper for operation. The rear caliper is a two in one. By pressing down on the rear brake pedal. Do the rear brakes engage? When you serviced the rear brake pads. Did you remove the parking brake linkage? Actuate the parking brake lever. Do you see the parking brake linkage move? Depending on what you find. You may have to adjust the threaded rod at the caliper or you may find that something is wrong with the caliper.
Remove the engine cover, find the carburetor, move the choke lever, see if something moves on the carb. Generally, broken choke cables are very noticeable because they are loose.
I presume this is the first time you have used your snowmobile this year? That means you have stale fuel in it, probably condensation water unless you stabilised the fuel at the end of last season. Your main problem though is that the carburetor needs cleaning.
Did you check/clean your air filter? I had a no start issue with my Yamaha RD350 where the filter box was tight up against the seat and no air was getting into the carb. Do you have compression? Is the cylinder still attached by the connecting rod? Have you recently made any changes (like new jets) or repairs to cylinder or rings?
usually it comes down to an air intake issue if you have a working cylinder in a motor with gas and spark unless your timing is so far off that it isn't firing during the compression. But it might still backfire if it's off?
I always add about 10% oil to my small engines to help protect them from friction. If it starts ok with that much oil, it might smoke a bit and cause a little carbon build up on the plugs or valves, but most engines after 1980 are high enough heat and compression ratio to clean themselves up.
Sometimes the oil doesn't blend in all the way without some sloshing around.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. YZ426 won idle without choke Intake Jetting Fuel Injection YZ426F Won Run Choke 4Strokes com Yamaha YZ426F Owner Service Manual OEM parts for Yamaha Yamaha YZ450F Owner Manual Page 3
Hi, Allen if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.motorcycleforums.net/threads/v-star-650-idle-issues.48035/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QtmvhOLSLA https://www.manualslib.com/manual/833178/Yamaha-Xvs650.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha https://www.manualslib.com/manual/659403/Yamaha-V-Star-Xvs650p.html
your fuel pump suppose to Hum and gently vibrate only when working normally, clacking sound would only mean that it is having a hard time or inconsistently supplying gasoline into your engine. Have it checked and see if any improvement would happen.
Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://biobug.org/motorcycle/xs850/Yamaha-XS70-XS850-Service-Manual.pdf https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/ https://bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_xs_750_special_1981.php https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_XS750
