I have a 3/8 ID rubber hose coming from the tank area on the left side hanging loose. Starting at the tank cover the hose is about 2.5 feet long. Where should that hose connect to or is supose to be hanging?

USA car LHD left hand drive and 4.7L gas engine not the DIESEL right?
well there is only one way
easy for some and not for other
and not get a bath in fuel.
the service manual covers this.
I have books and the car WJ, grand. but is near same as commander.
OEM chapter 14
tank. gas (petrol ,and not diesel wG jeeps)
page 14-21 quoted
Two different procedures may be used to drain fuel tank: through the fuel fill fitting on tank, or using a diagnostic scan tool. (YOU DO NOT HAVE TOOL)
The quickest draining procedure involves removing the rubber fuel fill hose (3) from fuel tank fitting (7).



1. Release fuel system pressure.(PRESSURE IZED LINES GOING FRONT)
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Thoroughly clean area around fuel fill fitting (7) and rubber fuel fill hose (3) at rear of fuel tank (8).
4. Loosen clamp (9) at tank fitting (7) and disconnect rubber fuel fill hose at fuel tank fitting. Using an approved gas
holding tank, drain fuel tank through this fitting.
Loosen clamp (9) and disconnect rubber fill hose (3) at tank fitting (7).
2. At rear of tank, disconnect fuel pump module electrical jumper connector (5) from body connector (6).
3. At rear of tank, disconnect EVAP lines (2) and (3) from lines (1) and (4).
4. At front of tank, disconnect fuel and EVAP lines (9) and (10) from lines (11) and (12).
5. Support tank with a hydraulic jack.
6. Remove bolts (1) and (2) at right side of fuel tank.
7. Remove bolts (3) at left side of fuel tank.
8. Lower tank for removal.
9. If fuel tank is to be replaced, remove fuel pump module from tank. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Instal-
lation procedures

Generally, on fifth wheels, the fresh water tank is in the rear area of the rv, but the pump is usually up near the front near the rest of the plumbing. Ie water heater, bathroom, etc. There are storage areas in the front, usually, the pump is on the side where the door for entering the trailer is. Open the storage access door that is on that side in the front and look at the panels that close off tbe storage area to the living quarters of the rv. There is usually a hole for access to a “winterizing point” marked. There us where you will find the pump

I know it sounds a bit difficult but fuel leaking is serious danger so with this id siphon tank dry (don't use a drill pump ) and undo fasteners and hoses/wires that hold it too truck , lowering it to ground , a carefull inspection of approx. area of leak will tell the problem , your looking for cracks in plastic or rubber hoses , these might be very small and fine look closely
if cracks are in the tank , unless you know someone with a ultrasonic welder id replace the tank

Disassembly
The fuel tank vent is located on the right side of the fuel
tank next to the right rear rubber element. With the fuel
tank empty and the fuel hose disconnected at the
carburetor, remove the two rear rubber elements. Separate the rear of the crankcase and the fuel tank enough to expose the fuel tank vent. Working through the fuel filler opening, grasp the fuel tank vent tube with a pair of needle nose pliers. Push the vent out the other side.
For access to the right side rubber elements, first remove the chain brake cover, bar, chain, chain catcher and cover plate.
For access to the left side rubber elements, remove the starter housing.

Assembly
Install the fuel tank vent using a drift the same diameter
as the vent tube. The remainder of assembly is the
reverse of disassembly.

This applies to 99 and later FI models. (Note, Removal for Carbed Bikes is simpler only needing the fuel line removed from the petcock plus a vent line or two)

It will be make things much easier if you drain the tank if you're doing this by yourself. Otherwise you'll probably need a helper to hold the tank while you disconnect hoses from the bottom. All you need is a siphon hose (and what teenager has never used one of those on dad's car eh?). If a piece of 1/2" garden hose isn't handy visit your auto supply store and pick up three or four feet of clear (so you can see the gas coming toward your mouth) 1/2" id (or close) plastic fuel line. Sometimes it's sold off a big spool sometimes pre-packaged hanging on a peg. You can also find clear hose at many hardware stores (even Home Depot & Lowes).

Follow the instructions below up to #8 (so the tank is loose) and put a block of wood under the rear of the tank so it's tilted forward slightly. Put your hose in the tank, apply suction (hopefully without getting a mouth full of hydrocarbon) and transfer fuel to another container.

Special Caution: Do NOT remove the pressurized hose if the engine has just been running or even if you've had the key on in the past few minutes. If the hose is removed before pressure has a chance to bleed off you WILL spray gasoline all over your bike and maybe yourself.

1. Remove the seat
2. Remove the chrome instrument surround (take out bolt and slide the surround forward)
3. Slide the speedometer assembly forward and off (if digital), lift out and disconnect speedo cable if analog.
4. Disconnect wires from speedometer assembly and set assembly aside in a safe place
5. Disconnect the other 2 wire connectors. It'll be handy to have a small flat blade screwdriver for this so you can push down on the catches while pulling the connectors apart
6. Remove front cap nut and rear tank bolt. Both are 12 mm.
7. Remove the one or two vent hoses you can see at the rear of the tank. (California bikes have two vents, most others use one).
8. Lift the front of the tank and put a folded shop towel on top of the engine right under the fuel lines. You'll get a few drops out of the lines when they're unplugged.

At this point a helper will be real handy to hold the tank up while you disconnect the fuel and vent lines especially if there's any fuel in the tank.


9. Remove the the fuel return hose...(the one with the metal clamp). A little gas might come out.
10. Remove the pressurized fuel hose...this one has a "squeeze" fitting. You just squeeze on each side of it with your fingers, push the fitting up toward the tank just a little then (while holding the 'buttons' in wiggle side to side to release it. A few drops of fuel might drip but the rag should take care of it.
11. Remove the square plastic piece and vent hose on the right side of the tank. It's next to the fuel line you just removed and covers some electrical connections.
12. Remove the vent line toward the rear of the tank. This line runs to the collection of vent hoses near the rear of the engine.
12. Finally, Remove the tank.

It probably took you longer to read all that than to actually do it and once you've removed the tank you won't hesitate to do it again for general maintenance especially if there's any chance you could drop something on it.

Re-assembly is in reverse order.

Caution!!!!! The hose with the 45 degree angle plastic connection with squeeze sides must snap into place when it's re-attached to the tank. If you don't hear it snap then you are at very high risk of having the hose slip off the tank fitting when the line pressurizes or maybe as you're rolling down the street. When that happens you will be pumping gasoline directly onto the top of your rear cylinder. A decidedly bad thing. Be Certain It Snaps!!!!

find the offending carb or carbs by pulling float bowl over flow hoses to the side and starting motor, 1 or move hose will be pouring fuel, follow hose to offending carb, unmount all 4 carbs from motor,(unmount tank,1 bolt 2 hoses,2 wires) then (unscew hose clamps from front and back of carbs) next(reomove scew from very top font of air box,near metal cross bar behind fuel tank) then wiggle carbs to separate from rubber intakes,unhook trhottle cables pull carbs out one side(either side of bike) once off turn upside down,take 4 bowl screws out ,remove cover,take out small pin holding floats ,needle will come with it,use the right wrench and uscrew brass seat needle came out of(make sure any rubber o ring come with) reinstall seat &any orings take old needle off float install new one,put needle in hole of seat,pin float put cover back on bottom of carb,re assemble bike.I hope you've maked where everything goes,a little oilon rubber helps with reassembly .













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You didn't mention where the fuel is coming from, so I'll start from the fuel pump; if it's not leaking with the key off, it has to be between the fuel pump and the carburetors.

First, remove the driver's seat, then the left side cover (it's the color matched cover under the front seat; it's held on by one bolt, the one toward the back of the motorcycle, and a friction pin through a grommet on the inside of the side cover, low and toward the center of the bike). Next remove the center cover, held on by pins and grommets on both sides. You've now exposed the fuel pump and filter, you can see the supply line from the fuel tank to to the pump, the output of the pump to the filter, and the line from the filter back toward the carburetors.

Check all exposed hoses and clamps for cracks, tears or loose connections. If none are evident, turn on the key; you should now be able to detect the source of the leak IF it's in the vicinity of the fuel pump and filter. The pump puts out 2-3 lbs. of pressure; a leak in that area should be obvious.

If you've detected no leakage there, reinstall the center cover, then the left cover, and proceed to the vicinity of the fuel tank and engine. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolts (there are two under the front of the tank, through tabs on the underside of the tank to the sides of the frame; there is also a bolt through a special washer and rubber insulator to the top of the frame at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank enough that you can see the fuel feed lines on both sides, as well as the fuel supply line from the fuel pump and filter. Examine lines on both sides, looking for cracks, tears of loose connections. Turn on the key, a leak in this vicinity should be immediately evident.

If none of the supply lines are leaking, the carburetors will have to be removed individually and checked for stuck needles, bad floats, or leaks in the carburetor housing. Those leaks, however, are typically sufficiently small that they would not be described as "gasoline pouring out".

leaks are usually from valve /dispenser area on top left or from door boot. to check valves open top cover by removing 2 or 3 torx/ 1/4' screws at rear and slide back. check underside of dispenser for cracks, check rubber hose connecting valves to dispenser.
to open front and check around boot, remove top cover, remove screws beside dispenser opening (remove drawer) snap control console off starting at dispenser side. On older non teardrop front disconnect and remove interface cables from ccu at rear (ribbon cable in clips on right side. On new teardrop models remove teardrop by unsnapping at top then work down carefully, then unclip console starting at left, disco cables at right side of interface. remove lower kick panel with 3 screws on bottom. then remove 2 front panel screws. remove 2 door lock asm screws and spring clip around boot, then 2 front panel top screws. panel comes right off, carefull of boot. door lock stays behind.

You want to be very careful not to make any sparks while working on this. The obvious is smoking, banging metal tools around, etc. keep cell phones AWAY from the area. Pick up some rubber fuel line from the parts store. Be prepared for some gas leakage, have a plastic pan under the leak. Disconnect the line at the tank, have a piece of new hose ready to push on over the line to as close to the tank as you can, have the end away from the tank plugged up temporarily with a pencil or something that fits snug in it, then remove the rubber hose on the filter, and connect new line from tank to filter, check for leaks, hopefully it is the rubber line you replaced, or the end of the metal line, so the new hose will hopefully cover the corroded leaking area. Clamp and Dry off area and see if you can spot any leaks.

one screw in back on top then slid case back, about 2 inches then lift from rear