BMW Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Fuse for the headlights for 650 BMW 2008
On a 2008 BMW 650i, the fuse for the headlights is located in the fuse box under the hood. The specific fuse you need is Fuse #61, which is a 20-amp fuse located in the third row of fuses from the top.
To access the fuse box, open the hood and locate the black plastic cover on the right side of the engine bay. There should be a diagram on the underside of the cover showing the layout of the fuses. Once you've found the correct fuse, you can use a fuse puller or a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove it from the fuse box.
It's always a good idea to check the owner's manual for your specific vehicle to get the most accurate and up-to-date information on the location and function of the various fuses.
Looking for diagnostic help, 2009 R1200RT stalls while driving and in idle immediately after starting. Brand new battery, new clutch. Feels and sounds a little rougher than usual.
moved you out of cars, to BMW Motorcycles.
if I leave light (heads/) for 30minutes, (engine running or not)>??????
if engine not running, that is NORMAL
if engine is running that is AbNORMAL and Alt/Gen is dead or fuse blown..
no you have 2 problems?, GEN dead and injection issues.
the cold start fails for these reasons of vast.
1: bad fuel, filters clogged.
2:injectors partially clogged from #1
3: spark weak , plugs bad.
4: or starting it with a DEAD Gen that caused battery to be weak.
but weak batteries do not crank or crank slow. so.... or does barely and now spark is weak with 11v battery weak?
TBO, fix bad gen first so it says running and not flat line the poor battery. I guess you have battery charger and using it to hide the bad GEN sure.
in all cases for sure this , check all fuse for sure all related to GEN.
BMW R1100S no start and no lights
no year told. (nor country) wiring not same, year, country northe S at end is very important too.fuse blownmy r1000s had he pesky kickstand switch that loved to fail.there is huge fuse box in this bike,the users guide coverno start means starter motor dead, or cranks fast but engine does not start, and run.?????????????and Neural safety switch failing, fiddle it about.the dash light glows for neutral.yes you said.all bikes here have right thumb dead man;s switchif tripped engine goes dead (no spark) (saved me offroad once, fell in to brambles.a panic button not like on boats with lanyard switch .tell what the starter motor does, dead silent , clicks ,chatters or spins. it uses 10 more current than lamps. so battery must be good. and pass load tests.bright head lamps not DIM at all.one more forgot yes the clutch switch bad kills the starter relay.5 switches happy painted red here by me
WHERE IS THE FUSE BOX ON A 2000 BMW R1100
moved you out of , cars to motorcycle had to guess last missing model letter (S)
the users manual covers this and is free if you search.
the service manual too covers this in spades.
2nd google hit.
free too. but is for S model and not told by you.
I had r1000s , mint restored.
more here if you want
all motorcycles, under see or tank .
really where else can they hide, some on headlight shell
Removing and installing central
electrical equipment box
Switch off ignition.
Disconnect ground (earth) lead from battery.
Insulate ground (earth) lead.
[RT] Remove small side fairing sections at left
[RT] Remove luggage rack/case holder.
[RS/R/RT] Take off rear fairing at left and right.
[RT] Remove lower rear section.
Take out retaining screws (1) for upper section of
central electrical equipment box.
Drops out of 2nd gear into neutral when
there must be wear in the 2nd gear and shift fork.Slight possibilty the end of the shift drum is loose or the indent roller spring is bad, unfortunately it needs to be fixed, if it keeps doing it it may cause more damage
BMW F650GS cannot shift down from neutral to
Unfortunately I do not have the answer yet, but I will!!! I too am having the same problem with my 2006 F650GS I can easily, smoothly go up and down through all the gears but there simply isn't a first gear! It has been mysteriously replaced with neutral. I am totally down with time off here and there for virtually everything and everyone with the exception of first gear and maybe the sun!!!
Also the neutral light will not go off no matter what gear I'm in... it's like it's trying to fill in for first gear or something.
I've been told it might be a shifting fork but as you can see in the diagram below from
that 1st gear and 3rd gear share a shifting fork (part #10). Since I can easily use 3rd gear I should be able to use 1st. So unless I can get some useful information/advice on where to go I will take the engine out of the bike and tear it down and figure it out. What ever I find I will share with y'all!
Just had the same happened to my K1200S. About 11K mi.
Assuming you didn't blow a gasket, or cracked a cyl-head. My problem was the lid of the thermostat was blown open.
If you only refill in the overflow tank, that's not filling up the cooling system. These bikes use a vacuum pump, and a bleeding procedure (check a nipple on the water pump to purge air) to remove all air bubbles.
Very likely you have an air bubble in your system and it's preventing the pump from priming (get filled with water so it pumps). So right now, it might just be spinning in an air bubble, instead of pushing coolant.
Here's the cheap version (other than preferably going to a dealer and being robbed).
Take the thermostat lid off. Careful. The thermostat has a spring that eager to jump out. Make sure the thermostat is in place. It's very, very hard to put the lid back in place (o-ring and thermostat conspire against easy). This is done to check the thermostat, but also and very importantly to prime the pump.
If you don't want to do it, it's ok. Let's go further.
Open the radiator cap (use long pliers, it's hard with your hands). Very likely it's needing coolant. Fill up.
Fill the reservoir.
Start the engine. as it heats up, use a 11-mm wrench (I think it's 11). and open the water pump nipple to let air out. When the pump is primed and properly working, nothing but a steady stream of coolant should come out. If you have steam or air coming out, you still have air bubble.
Stop the engine. Tilt the whole bike to the right, and fill the reservoir. Make sure you want until the coolant is cool before you do this (about 20-mins). Start for about 10 secs with the bike tilted.
Tilt the bike to the left, and refill the radiator.
Now turn on the bike and purge the water pump until nothing but a steady stream of coolant comes out.
You can declare victory, when the temp indicator stays 2 bars below the mid mark.
Let me know if this helped. (check also i-bmw.com)
HALL EFFECT SENSOR ON BMW RT
Your question is not complete.I can answer the questions if they are complete.I have previous experience replacing Hall Effect Sensor.(Source:https://www.apogeeweb.net/electron/what-is-a-hall-effect-sensor.html
I bought the new unit from beemer boneyard. I initially ordered the wrong part number and the plug was incompatible. I got really good service on getting the right one ordered and returning the wrong one for credit.
It's not the lowest cost option but worked well for me.
I also built my own timing light for about $12 of radio shack parts. Worked like a champ.
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