Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road king - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for clarity, plus full make and model. Some ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Harley+Davidson+Road+King+not+getting+a+spark ..

Hi, Donald for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBWib51gvgk http://www.mediafire.com/file/5ebjgak89h380nx/1999+Harley+Touring+Service+Manual.pdf https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Duplicate question already answered

Remove the bolts and disconnect the guel line.

Sensors doing what ?

have the carb and the ignition checked, Is your fuel contaminated maybe.

yes yes just like the fellow above said I would go back to that dealer they sell these bikes they diagnose and fix these bikes that is their job bottom line if you had not taken it there before maybe I might think or come up with some ideas for you to try but they took your money now they need to do the job

You have a hole in your gas tank or your gas lines are dry rotted. If your fuel injected, you should replace your hoses. If it is carbureted, you could have a bad petcock get yourself a bar soap, and we think it's leak in. Just pack it with soap. It's a leak stops. That's where it is. Before you do anything. No decrease it and clean it, so you can see where the leak starts from

Park on a flat surface have motorcycle upright with a person sitting on it turn on low beam aim at something white garage door etc at about 30 feet away it should be down a few inches from the actual measurement at the bike from headlight to Flor

Looks like a leak at intake manifold. Start the engine ,spray a Carb cleaner on the manifold close to the Cylinder's and if you hear a change on idle ,then you have an intake leak.....

2010 and up.

Remove power leads, bolt securing starter gear from inside primary case. Two Allen screws holding motor to primary

Sorry, cannot provide a diagram but: COIL A = Power B = Ion Sense C = Coil RR D = Coil FRT connector = 83A ECM connector 11 = y/be = rear coil ECM connector 29 = be/0 = front coil Ignition harness connector 83B = A = Y/GN B = GY/BE C = Y/BE D = BE/O

engine could be worn out or too much oil in system or breather system is malfunctioning. Usual cause is too much oil.

Unless you know someone who works for a harley dealer? Aint happenin-good luck!

If this is a Victory question you would possibly be better to post it as a Victory and not as a Harley question.

first of all, what color is the oil that's leaking?

I cannot post you a picture but the engine oil drain plug is on the left hand front of the oil pan. It is a 5/8 inch hex plug with a 1/4 inch allen socket in its center.

If you have the stock pushrods, you can't! I think it was sometimes during the EVO engines (which pre-date your Twin-Cam engine), Harley switched to NON-ADJUSTABLE push rods.

Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all freeplay and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch pushrod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm). These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.