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Posted on Jul 16, 2011

Need a vacuum diagram for the heater and ac control mice ate the coupling now don't know where the lines go . Thanks for any help

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 85 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 14, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 Dodge RAM no HEAT/ New heater core / AC evap.

There is a actuator on the right side of your leg while sitting in the drivers seat under the dash. It has a plastic rod for actuation manually actuate this diverter and should be the problem.

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Mike Butler

  • 6674 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 01, 2009

SOURCE: I need a diagram for the A/C and heater vacuum

It may not be that hard without diagram. You'll have one main feed line in (suction), then it gets distributed via control. If you start engine, with feed line connected to proper port (inlet, and probably larger than the rest) then switch to different modes, you should have vacuum at one of the other ports, and simply attach one line at a time, turn on fan, until you find the one that directs air to where it should be going. Then go on to next setting, and try remaining lines one at a time, on port where you hear hissing/feel vacuum until blower blows where it says it should. If you still need diagram, let me know, I'll do some digging.

c17hydro

Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 01, 2009

SOURCE: I need a vacuum diagram for an 89 Newyorker

I have the diagram but we can't post pdf files here. Please post your email address and I'll send it to you right away....FREE.

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Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2010

SOURCE: 1989 dodge dakota v6 vacuum diagram.

try this out:

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/8847/images/88474v02.pdf

Anonymous

  • 1702 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 04, 2010

SOURCE: 1998 dodge Ram 1500 4X4. The heater/AC blows out

In the engine compartment, locate black vacuum hose that runs from brake booster check valve to intake manifold, there will be a small vacuum hose attached to check valve at the power brake booster check valve. This is the vacuum line going to the heater control unit,check the hose all the way to the firewall, repair any leaks you find. And that should take care of your problem.......GOOD LUCK

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Vacuum routing diagram from the heater/ac control unit for a 1986 chrysler fifth avenue

there should be a label underside of the hood showing this but as vehicle is a bit oldish may not still be there follow this link you should find yours there
Repair Guides Vacuum Diagrams Vacuum Diagrams AutoZone com
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HOW TO REPLACE MISSIING HEATER CONTROL VACUUM LINES

Best bet is get a factory service repair book, it will show you where each one goes
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In the winter when I am using my defroster or other interior heater to heat the interior and/or the glass and windshield, frost and or ice will build up on the edges of the windshield and or both side...

Hello, Thank you for letting me assist you. Let's look at your problem. I don't see a year or model for your vehicle so I will assume it is 1990 or newer. Manufacturers for some reason setup the defroster setting to activate the AC compressor regardless of what you have the temperature setting set to anytime it is turned on. This becomes problematic in some regions. I know when I drive through Pennsylvania during the winter I had to change my windshield washer fluid from cleaner to a 50 /50 mix of cleaner and alcohol/deicer fluid in order to stop the icing on my windows. Your problem though, as I understand your post, is there is ice forming on the inside of the vehicle.

The first thing to make sure you are setting the air control to recirculate instead of bringing air in from the outside. Second, make sure your using a 60/40 mix of Anti-Freeze in your radiator and that your radiator is properly filled. Normally you use a 50/50 but in your case you seem to be in a colder region and being a little stronger on the Anti Freeze will ensure you don't have a motor freeze. Next you need to check your thermostat. If you haven't replaced it in the last 5 years I would replace it. In colder regions you really need the thermostat to make sure your actually building heat up before water is cycled from the radiator. The next check is to make sure your actually getting heat to the heater coil on the inside of the vehicle. Start the vehicle and let it idle for about 10 minutes. This should be enough time for the engine to heat up and for the thermostat to open. Then turn the heater on with it set to your mid-level vents. If you have no heat coming through the vents you need to check your heat control valve and AC compressor. If your set to heat and not defrost the AC compressor should not be running. Make sure the control valve on your main heater line is open. The main Heater line is a 1" or 5/8" line that runs from motor to the firewall, it will have a control valve on it that is either cable controlled or more commonly vacuum controlled. The vacuum controlled system are more problematic as any vacuum leak in the system will cause it to malfunction plus the vacuum controller where you set the temperature inside the vehicle can cause problems and is hard to isolate. The good news is you can by-pass this control in the winter even if you only do it for testing. Remove the controller and put a straight pipe in its place. If you don't have water running through that hose either your water pump is bad or you have a blockage. Now, assuming you have water flowing through that hose, if the heater works when the vehicle is sitting and idling but it gives you trouble when your driving there is one more option. I don't recommend doing this except in very cold climates as it can cause you to overheat and you have to remember to undo this trick when it gets 50 degrees or warmer. You can partially block the radiator. Be careful not to fully block it and be aware this will cause more resistance when the vehicle is moving. They sell kits in cold climate areas that are made of canvas to partially block the air flow through the radiator but you can make one using cardboard or a piece of canvas just don't use anything plastic. This will reducing the cooling capacity of your radiator and increase the warmth of the water going to the heater core. I normally see these in areas like Canada, Colorado or Alaska in the winter but there are cases when you may need them in other states.
Let me know if this doesn't fix the problem. If none of this works then let me know what you found doing the checks I gave you and we will look at something else.
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1998 lincoln town car when i turn the temp to 90 it still wont get hot have changed the thermostat, and flushed heater core but it still won't get hot the AC works great just don't have no heater...

Just a stab at it................see if there's a vacuum or electric operated valve in the heater hose lines.Trace it out.The heater hose goes from the thermostat area at intake manifold thru the heater core,and back to water pump area. don-ohio
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Have a 2008 Ford E450 Class C M/H with a Triton V-10. Rats chewed up a vacume line. Facing the engine, left side of the intake manifold near throttle body is a connection with two RED plastic vacume...

Same chewed red vacuum A/C damper line passenger side. splices to black line above the AC coil box. Removed battery and holder. Loosened A/C dryer mounts from inner fender. Removed fan motor. Interior passenger side lower right corner of the air input damper is the entry port for the black vacuum line. Removed clear rubber entry port weather plug/seal. Pulled the damaged black line out of the weather plug/seal. Ran a wire fish line from interior to exterior below left corner of the fan motor. Taped new line to fish tape and pulled new line into the cab. Reinserted new line into weather seal and reinstalled in reverese.5272c02f-9f6f-488e-a428-1e30a8342318.jpg719d1a3c-a72e-4a51-8201-9073ae2d31f3.jpgdbe7d6e5-21ea-4dd1-a9ec-2431f56b292c.jpgbffdab4a-8c8a-4aaa-9d1d-b9bf8c0e8fb3.jpg
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When using the heater or air conditioner, all warm or cold air comes out off the windshield deforest vents, no matter what position the position control knob is on.

The air controls in the heat/AC system are vacuum operated. When the controls don't cause the air flow to shift it is normally caused by lack of vacuum to the air flow system. This is normally caused by a break in a vacuum or a vacuum line that has come loose from a connection, usually under the hood. These vacuum lines are small black plastic tubes about 1/8 to 3/16 in diameter. My experience has been that places under the hood where these lines are exposed to high heat causes them to get brittle and break or crack. I have found lines that are between the battery and fire wall that don't get much air flow and are heated by the battery are a likely place to look. Look for the line that goes through the fire wall. that is likely the damaged line. Trace it back to find the crack or break. If you find this is the cause, replace all the section of line that is brittle. If you don't do that you will have the same problem again very soon. You can splice sections of this tubing with rubber hose of the proper inside diameter. Good luck.


Thanks for using FixYa.


Gaker

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Need diagram of vacuum line that comes out of the back of the throttle body.a/c heater control.2001 mustang GT.

I have a 2001 mustang gt with ac i dont have air comming out of the front vents so i bought heater controls and no difference then i found a yellow vacume line off but cant find where it goes can any one help me !!!!!! thanks mary
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