1984 ford bronco II backfires through intake and dies changed plugs and wires distributor, cap & rotar, coils, and checked timing still didnt fix problem what could be causing problem?

This thread should give you a few more things to check out.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/989068-84-bronco-2-no-spark.html

Use the timing marks and put it on Top Dead Center #1 Cylinder and the Rotor in the Distributor will point right at where #1 Plug Wire will go.

I doubt its the timing.
What you describe sounds more like a lack of fuel problem.
Fuel pressure, throttle position sensor, or something else.
To actually check the timing you put the ignition in test mode and use a timing light on #1 cylinder.

how do you remove the gear on the end of distributor shaft so the pickup coil can be replaced

Based on what you have already replaced and the fact you keep having to rest the timing tells me the problem is the Timing Belt/Chain has stretched or the Tension assembly for the timing has become inoperative. Your going to have to inspect these and repair them as needed.

Remove the tfi module,this is attached to the distributor,have it checked at the auto parts store,if it is bad replace it,if it is good,replace the pick up coil in the distributor,if this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

Good battery, good starter. Leaves spark and fuel.
1. Remove 1 spark plug wire from a plug. Hold near engine block while someone "cranks" the engine.
- Spark (yes/no)
If yes, issue is fuel. If no, remove distributor cap and check for cracks. Also clean inside to remove rust and dirt. Besure that inside of distributor cap is reasonably clean and rust free. After that, reinstall cap.
Try to start engine. IF it is exactly same symptom.....
Check input voltage to coil (high voltage source for distributor). Is 12volts present? If not, troubleshoot wiring between battery source and coil. Be sure to include the fuse for "ignition" in fuse box.
If yes.....Confirm high voltage is present at center (input) wire to distributor (CAUTION:- 30,000 volts could be present... do NOT touch bare wire.) Use insulated plyers or similar to place this center wire near engine block to check for spark. Note that this voltage source is powered on as soon as the ignition key is in the "run" position.

Replace coil if no high voltage is coming out. Replace distributor cap and rotor if high voltage is coming in to it, but not leaving and getting to spark plugs.

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Confirm fuel is getting to intake.
I spray starting fluid into intake while cranking engine. It will "fire" if all else is good.
If it "pops" or fires, then you have a fuel feed problem... between tank and intake manifold, shoot fuel filter, fuel pump and otherwise confirm that gas is moving to intake from gas tank.

Good luck.

Maybe a broken wire going to the distributor, Check that first. Check fuse also ( Engine fuse ). Check distribution box ( brain box ).

Well its electrical if your not getting spark.

check the voltage to the coil......if your not getting voltage there nothing will happen

How did you check the coil..perhaps your coil is bad...they are cheap.

Ohm out the coil to see if it test correctly, you cant just take the wire off of it to check for spark..this is not an accurate test


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could be many things like a bad connection to the coil. bad ground. bad wire. even a bad coil. use a dvom and test 12V current going into the coil. it could be bad points in the cap and rotor.