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Anonymous Posted on Aug 03, 2010

Gentlemen, The first problem was the fuse link at the battery. I jumpered the fuse link with a small alligator jumper. It worked fine until this evening. The motor developed an intermittent stutter/miss especially during acceleration but also sometimes during cruise. The check engine light would come on after the stutter would start and go off just prior to the stutter going away. The check engine light showed code 6. I unplugged/plugged the two green plugs on the distributor and the big green plug at the front of the motor. The motor sounded a LOT better and ran a LOT better. Upon acceleration from a stop sign I revved to about 6 grand in first gear. Very strong accel. The motor quit during acceleration and will not start. When I opened the engine cover the fuse link jumper was melted. I replaced it and the motor cranks and sounds as if it wants to start. I pulled the coil wire and I have nice strong fire. I opened the fuel system and have pressure. I have an injection testing kit. I put one of the GM injection testing modules on the number one injector plug. It shows no injector firing. I am not sure the GM module will show accurate although the module inserted perfectly into the plug. One other item to mention. There is a frayed ground wire under a bolt head on the front of the motor. There is a melted ground wire under a bolt head on the body inside the engine compartment. I clipped a small jumper between the frayed wire and the body wire. As soon as I tried to start the motor the jumper melted apart. I removed the jumper and the car started and ran great - until it quit. Any and all ideas are welcome. thanks for your replies.

  • Anonymous Aug 07, 2010

    It was the ECU. I swapped it and it started.

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dj_relly999

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  • Posted on Aug 03, 2010
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Hi! Have you tried checking on the PCM (powertrain control module)? The PCM has connectivity on all electrical current inside the car including engine and transmission. If the PCM is faulty it gives current irregularities like what you are in now. I suggest that you swap the PCM first and see if it will still act up. Hope this helps and have a good one!

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  • Anonymous Aug 05, 2010

    Now I have two MR2s with the same problem. They crank fine. Neither will start. I have checked and checked wires, relays, resistor, fuses and voltages per the manual and schematics. I used my injector test kit (noids) to try to test the injector firing. Again, one of the GM noids fits the plug but I get no light (solid or blinking). I don't know if this should show anything or not as it is for a GM not an MR2.

    ON BOTH CARS -
    I unbolted the cold start injector to see if it sprayed gas. I got no spray. I tested the cold start plug and see no power to the plug. I see no power to the injectors.
    No noid light. Neither solid on nor blinking.
    I tested the EFI main relay. It functions correctly.
    I tested the Circuit opening relay. It functions correctly.
    I tested the solenoid resistor. It functions correctly.
    I tested the injector relay. It functions correctly.
    I tested the start injector time switch. It functions correctly.
    I checked the timing belt. All aligned correctly.
    I have battery power to the ECU.
    I checked the gas line pressure while cranking. They both have pressure. They both hold pressure.
    They both have spark.
    Is it the ECU? I have an ECU from my 89. Is it the same? Should it plug and play? I would be very disappointed if both ECUs are bad. They are expensive.
    What am I missing?
    thanks in advance.
    Stuar

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 Aug 05, 2010

    Hi! HOw was it?

  • Anonymous Aug 05, 2010

    I am still wondering what I am missing? I am not finding the problem. I will go over the ground connections again. With some of the posts on an MR2 forum the grounding is VERY important.
    thanks for you reply
    Stuart

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