Hi, When clutch pedal is depressed, its very hard to get into gear also make a gear scraping noise when i select reverse

Hi there,

The sound you hear, is it a whining, popping, grinding, scraping or rattling sound?
If you drive a manual transmission vehicle and notice a grinding noise, it can indicate the clutch gear is no longer disengaging correctly.

Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse

Hi,its always best to replace the hole of the clutch kit,as the presher plate is proberly damaged as well,all the best.

If your shifter wont move to get it in gear, most likely the clutch is not disengaging when you depress the pedal to change gears. Its a hydraulic clutch, check that the reservoir is full on fluid.

sounds like your clutch is going out, is it hard to put in gear with clutch all the way depressed? could also be the sinkronyzer going out, could be the gears in the transmission also going bad. need to check the fluid in the transmission.

TRY THIS I BET IT'S YOUR PROBLEM

Neutral Safety Switch

• Put the selector in the park position.
• Loosen the screws on the neutral safety switch.
• Remove the switch.
• Reverse the procedures to complete the installation.

Clutch Start Switch
CAUTION
Before replacing the clutch switch or any component connected to the vehicle's control computer, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

• After replacing the switch, slowly work the clutch pedal and note any unusual noises or interferences with pedal movement.
• If the switch is adjustable, make sure the clutch pedal height and push rod (free) play are correct.
• Then check the release point of the clutch.
• Begin by engaging the parking brake and installing wheel chocks.
• Start the engine and allow it to idle.
• Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift lever into reverse until the gears contact.
• Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (this is the release point) up to the full stroke end position.
• If the distance is not within specifications, check the pedal height, push rod play, and pedal free play.
• If the distance is correct, check the clearance between the switch and the pedal assembly when the clutch is fully depressed.

Clutch switch to pedal assembly clearance. Courtesy of Toyota Motor Company.

• Loosen the switch and adjust its position to provide for the specified clearance.

check again- could be gear box bearing, depress the clutch pedal and see if noise stops,if so gear box bearing need to change .

how does the clutch pedal feel?..clutch out of adjustment,needs clutch job...kev-mn.

The throw out bearing could cause these isues, however I would look else where before doing anything about that. A throw out bearing can be "bad" for a very long time without causing any issues other than annoyance. Is this a cable operated slave cylinder or a hydraulic? If Cable you can adjust the throw of the pedal to take up any slack that will be made from there. Your problem sounds like your not getting enough clutch pedal throw, is there allot of play in the pedal? A simple test you can do is with the car off pointing down hill (key on so steering wheel is unlocked) With the car in gear, depress the clutch pedal slowly untill the car begins to roll. If allot of travel is required then you know that your not getting full use of your clutch pedal. A Broken shift or stretched shift cable could cause this issue as well. I would start simple and work your way up. If a hyd. system it is self adjusting i would check for full fluid in the resevoir as well. Let me know how you make out and we can trouble shoot from there.