92 ls400 cooling clutch fan bearing replacement? Water pump & timing belt need replaced then too?

Diagnose Cooling Fan Clutch On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy

TWO TYPES OF FAN CLUTCHES basic types of fan clutches: thermal and non-thermal (also called "torque limiting Thermal fan clutches have a temperature-sensitive bimetal coil spring on the front that reacts to temperature changes. When the air coming through the radiator is hot, the spring expands and opens an internal valve that reduces clutch slippage. This causes the fan to spin faster for increased cooling. As the air cools, the spring contracts and closes the valve. This increases the amount of clutch slippage, allowing the fan to slow down and decrease cooling FAN CLUTCH OPERATION

The clutch consists of a fluid coupling filled with a silicone based oil. In the cutaway view at the left, the area between the teeth on the clutch plates is filled with silicone fluid. An internal valve opens and closes a passage between the main fluid cavity and a fluid reservoir. When the passage is open, fluid enters the clutch and makes the fan to turn faster. When the valve is shut, fluid flows back to the reservoir but doesn't return, causing the clutch to slip and the fan to turn more slowly.
The non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch doesn't have a temperature sensing capability. It reacts only to speed, slipping to limit maximum fan speed to about 1200 to 2200 rpm depending on the application.

FAN CLUTCH PROBLEMS

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.
As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.
Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.
If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.
If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.
Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.
You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

FAN CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

Many experts say it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump if the water pump has failed. The reason is because both age at about the same rate, so if the water pump has failed, the fan clutch may also fail soon. As as we mentioned earlier, a high mileage fan clutch may be slipping excessively increasing the risk of overheating.
When you buy a replacement fan clutch, make sure you get the same type (thermal or nonthermal) as the original. You can always upgrade from a nonthermal to a more efficient thermal fan clutch, but never the reverse. Or, you can get rid of the fan and clutch altogether and install an aftermarket electric fan kit to cool the radiator.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. Determine the Reason for Water Pump Failure
   • 1 Repair a water pump by checking your car for a failure in the bearings. You can test for bearing failure by seeing if there is any play in the shaft that is connected to the electrical fan blades, as well as the drive pulley to the pump itself.
     
   • 2 If you notice any free play in the shaft or the pulley, you will need to take the pump apart and replace the bearings.
     
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   • 3 Determine if the water pump failure is due to a leak in the casing. Examine the water pump housing for leaking or water stains in the drainage hole next to the pulley.
     
   • 4 If water is dripping from this hole, then the seals inside the pump need to replaced in order to repair the pump.
     
   Remove the Water Pump for Repair
   • 5 Allow the engine to cool completely before removing any part of the cooling system. Never open a radiator cap or plug while the engine is still warm.
     
   • 6 Disconnect the car battery. This will prevent the electrical fan from turning on while you are under the hood.
     
   • 7 Drain the radiator of all fluid and disconnect the radiator hoses. Collect the fluid with a plastic container and keep it in a safe place until you are ready to put it back into the radiator.
     
   • 8 Remove the fan assembly. This will include the shroud, the fan and the fan belt. Disconnect the electrical leads for the fan.
     
   • 9 Remove the pulley for the fan belt as well in order to have access to the water pump.
     
   • 10 Use a socket set to remove the water pump from its engine mount.
     
   • 11 Open the housing for the water pump and replace the seals or bearing as necessary. Some auto parts stores carry repair kits that have both the seals and bearings for specific types of water pumps.
     
   • 12 Reassemble the cooling system by replacing the water pump, pulley, fan belt, fan assembly and radiator hoses. Refill the radiator with the fluid.
     
   • 13 Start the engine to see if the water pump repair was successful. Check for leaks before you take the car out on the road.
     

Water pump bearing is gone makes the shaft wobble and WILL take out the radiatorif it hits it.

On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.

As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.

Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.

If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.

If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.

Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.

You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

I posted this to another Ford Problem and I believe it applies to you as well.

This is a shot in the dark with out running diagnostics myself but here it goes, I had a 1988 Cavalier that would just die while I was driving it. On short drives, in the morning, when the engine was cool... it would not die. It would only die after the engine heated up to a certain point.

I took it all over the place to see what the problem was and nobody could figure it out, until finally I took it to my local Firestone shop and they had a special diagnostic tool that checked all of the electrical connections and low and behold I had a misc. wire that crossed the back of my engine from one side of the engine bay to the other. This wire was melted to my engine block and when the engine heated up to a certain point the wire would short out.

After they pinpointed the wire they replaced it with an in-tact wire and it worked beautifully.

Again, I am not stating that this is for sure your problem, but take it from me that there are better diagnostics to run then your standard error code ODB II dump.

Hope that helps and let me know if there are any developments.

Brian

No it sounds like you have a bad water pump..

Yes you must remove the timing belt and gear to remove the water pump. I always recommend a new timing belt as part of the repair. Regards, Joe
PS kindly rate my answer. Thank you.

Hi,

Water Pump - A device, usually located on the front of the engine and driven by oneof the accessory drive belts, that circulates the coolant by causing itto move from the lower radiator-outlet section into the engine bycentrifugal action of a finned impeller on the pump shaft.

INSPECTION

The majority of water pump failures are attributed to leaks of somesort. When the pump seal fails, coolant will begin to seep out of theweep hole in the casting.



Signs of leakage from the water pump vent means the pump's seal is bad. Courtesy of Federal-Mogul Corporation.This is an early indicator of trouble. The seals may simply wear outdue to abrasives in the cooling system, or some types of seals crackdue to thermal shock such as adding cold water to an overheated engine.This could also cause other internal parts to fail.
Other failures can be attributed to bearing and shaft problems andan occasional cracked casting. Water pump bearing or seal failure canbe caused by surprisingly small out-of-balance conditions that aredifficult to spot. Look for the following:

• A bent fan. A single bent blade will cause problems.
• A piece of fan missing.
• A cracked fan blade. Even a small crack will prevent proper flexing.
• Fan mounting surfaces that are not clean or flush.
• A worn fan clutch.

TEST

To check a water pump, start the engine and listen for a bad bearing, using a mechanic's stethoscope or rubber tubing.

• Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
• If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

WARNINGWhenever working near a running engine, keep yourhands and clothing away from the moving fan, pulleys, and belts. Do notallow the stethoscope or rubber tubing to be caught by the moving parts.There is another test that can be performed on vehicles with an engine-driven fan.

• With the engine off and the fan belt and shroud removed, grasp the fan and attempt to move it in and out and up and down.
• More than 1/16 inch (1.58 mm) of movement indicates worn bearings that require water pump replacement.
• To determine whether the water pump is allowing for good circulation, warm up the engine and run it at idle speed.
• Squeeze the upper hose connection with one hand and accelerate the engine with the other hand.
• If a surge on the hose is felt, the pump is working.
• Any air being sucked into the cooling system is certain to have a detrimental effect.
• It cuts down pumping efficiency and causes both rusting and wear at a rate approximately three times above normal.
• To test for aeration, have the engine fully warmed up, all hose connections tight, and the coolant level up to normal.
• Attach one end of a small hose to the radiator overflow pipe and put the other end into a jar of water.
• Run the engine at a fast idle. If a steady stream of bubblesappears in the jar of water, air is getting into the cooling system.
• Check first for a cylinder gasket leak by running a compression test.
• If two adjacent cylinders test low, the gasket is bad. Otherwise, there is an air leak somewhere else in the cooling system.

REPLACE

• When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
• Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscousdrive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumpsare attached to the cylinder block as shown below.

Installing a water pump. Courtesy of Dana Corporation.

• Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
• Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.

WARNINGWhen working on the coolant system (for example,replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolantwill spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to bevery slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills toreduce or eliminate the chance of injury.

• When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
• Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied toa new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
• Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
• Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggeredsequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Carelesstightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump tomake sure it rotates freely.
• The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by theengine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines,always replace the timing belt.
• Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.

To be really honest, it depends on person to person. For some people it's easy and for some it's tough. The procedure is above for your model. You can judge yourself.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Please RATE ME
This IS EXACT Procedure Bu The BOOK
REMOVAL

1. Drain cooling system.
2. Loosen fan clutch attaching bolts.
3. Remove fan shroud attaching bolts and remove shroud and fan.
4. Remove drive belt.
5. Disconnect lower radiator hose, heater hose and bypass hose from water pump.
6. Remove fan, spacer, water pump pulley and fan shroud.
7. Remove A/C compressor/power steering pump bracket and accessories to clear water pump stud bolt.
8. Remove water pump attaching bolts and the water pump.

INSTALLATION

1. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten water pump retaining bolts to 12-18 ft. lbs.

NOTE: All water pumps have a sealed bearing integral with the water pump shaft. The bearing requires no lubrication. A bleed hole in the pump housing allows water that may leak past the seal to be thrown out by the slinger. This is not a lubrication hole. If the pump is damaged and requires repair, replace it with a new pump or a rebuilt one.
I Need your Help Also !! PLEASE RATE ME

Loosen the belts [ you do not need to remove] so they are free of tension to all pulleys.Start engine , if noise goes away either belts were too loose [ common on lx 450] or you have a worn & noisey pulley /bearing.have seen idler pulley below alternator have dry / noisey bearing.Otherwise if idler is ok it has to be another belt driven assessory , ac clutch,water pump & or fan clutch.Good Luck.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. Let me know if you dont get diagrams(happens sometimes)

Reverse rotation water pump—2.5L and 4.0L engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this manual.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following: NOTESome 4.0L engines are equipped with a fan clutch that threads Directly on to the water pump shaft. This fan clutch is equipped with right-hand threads. NOTEDo not store the fan clutch assembly horizontally, silicone may leak into the bearing grease and cause contamination. NOTEOne of the water pump bolts is longer than the others. Note the location for reassembly.
   • Negative battery cable
   • Electric cooling fan connector
   • Accessory drive belt
   • Engine cooling fan and pulley
   • Water pump pulley
   • Power steering pump
   • Lower radiator hose from the water pump
   • Heater hose
   • Water pump and discard the gasket

To install:

1. Clean the mating surfaces of all gasket material.
2. Install or connect the following:
   • Water pump using a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
   • Heater hose
   • Lower radiator hose
   • Water pump pulley. Torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
   • Power steering pump
   • Engine cooling fan and shroud. Torque the bolts to 31 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
   • Accessory drive belt
   • Electric cooling fan connector
   • Negative battery cable
3. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
4. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

3.7L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this manual.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Fan and clutch assembly from the pump
   • Fan shroud and fan assembly. If you’re reusing the fan clutch, keep it upright to avoid silicone fluid loss!
   • Lower hose
   • Water pump (8 bolts)
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts, in sequence, to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Water pump tightening sequence—3.7L