Replacing the vacuum leak - 1998 Ford Escort

Some of the most common repairs for a P0354 code include:

• Replacing or repairing a leaking manifold vacuum
• Replacing faulty wiring to the ignition coil(s)
• Replacing old or mismatched spark plugs
• Replacing or repairing the ignition coil(s)

What repairs can fix the P0352 code?

• Replacing the coil pack
• Replacing the spark plugs
• Repairing a vacuum leak such as a leaking intake manifold gasket or cracked vacuum line
• Replacing the Engine Control Module
• Repair or replacement of any damaged coil pack wiring

If items above won't help with a Camry 2007
This video may help: https://youtu.be/H7_JGQWA9Ds

Bank lean fault... typical from a vacuum leak or intake manifold leak. Chevy V6 has history with lower intake manifold gasket failure. Check all vacuum hoses, especially the notorious chevy vacuum accumulator line.

It could possibly be a vacuum leak, try replacing the Idle Air Control Valve about a $45 part..
Trace down the hose(s) that is (are) torn, dry rotted or just fallen off and replace them also.. I hope this works.

check vacuum lines, start with the pcv valve. sounds like it has a vacuum leak, and that could cause numerous codes to come up. find the leak then reset the ck engine codes first before replacing anything.

either you still have a vacuum leak or the idle control motor is stuck try and tap non it tap not hit

You have a Vacuum leak in the system, you will need to get a vacuum leak down check done on the engine,
It may just be a leak from the rear of the heater controls or in the engine bay

Volkswagens are common to have a vacuum leak or head gasket leak. I have fixed many idling issues with vacuum leaks by replacing cracked and leaking vacuum hoses

You no longer have vacuum assistence. The brake master cylinder is mounted on the brake booster which uses vacuum generated by the engine to "help" you push the brake pedal. On diesel engines there is normally a vacuum pump on the rear of the alternator which generates this vacuum. On petrol engines the vacuum is generated by the engine itself. Follow the pipe from the booster to the inlet manifold or alternator(diesel) and check for leaks along the whole length and at the joints. Replace the pipe if leaking. If no leaks are found the booster needs replacing. If you have a diesel engine, check the operation of the vacuum pump first before replacing the booster. Make sure the alternator is turning(belt in place) at idle. Disconnect the pipe at the rear of the alternator and hold a piece of paper over the pump opening to check operation. Do not use your hand as this will result in injury even with the engine at idle. Replacing the booster will see you upside down under the dashboard swearing, pleading and begging because that's where the bolts are that hold the booster in place. The master cylinder needs to be removed from the booster before the booster can be pulled from the engine bay.

You have a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Whenever you push it in, a vacuum leak is introduced. Causing the engine to idle higher. Changing the brake booster will cure the problem.

Before replacing the timing cover gasket, crawl underneath the truck and spray everything with brake parts cleaner, then wipe with rags until dry & clean. Start the truck, then crawl under the front of the truck, using a flashlight to spot leaks. Chances are the leak is the seal between the vacuum pump and power steering pump. If this is the case, contact Pete Gould at fixinrams.com. He can sell you an uprated seal kit, or provide you with a totally remanned vacuum pump reasonably. The vacuum pump runs about $375, replacing front cover gasket is about $1100. Hope this helps