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Connecting rod cap nuts: 1st stage - 22 Nm, 2nd stage - 40 Nm + 90°
Please note that these are just the general torque settings. The exact torque settings may vary depending on the specific engine and vehicle. It is always best to consult your vehicle's service manual for the correct torque settings.
Here are some additional tips for tightening the torque settings:
Use a torque wrench to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the correct torque.
Tighten the bolts in a star pattern, working your way from the center out.
Do not overtighten the bolts, as this can damage the engine.
You are presumably referring to the piston connecting rod big end bearing caps?
It would be helpful if your question was more specific especially regarding the problem you are having.
Generally, cleanliness is important, observing the pairing of each rod and cap (they are all slightly different) and fitting each cap the correct way around.
Fit the bearing shells to the rods and caps and having replaced the bolts or studs and nuts according to the repair manual, oil the bearing surfaces, fit the cap and tighten the fasteners to the correct torque.
The settings should be in the manual . Rule of thumb for torque is 45 ft lb on the big ends and 65 for the mains. Sorry, don't know the metric specs, but you can check on the internet for a conversion table, just google "conversion table" and you will find the answers. You need to convert between ft lb and Kg Meter - or something!!
You are looking for the torque settings for big end bearings and main bearings on a daewoo matiz? Main bearings torques on a Daewoo Matiz 800cc (1999) Stage 1: 25-30 Nm Stage 2: 55-60 Nm Big End Bearings…
If it knocks heavy under acceleration it will be a big end first or a main second. Disconnect each plug wire until there is no knock under acceleration and that will point to the piston and big end that is faulty. Remove the sump and that big end bearing and if the crank is still good replace the bearing. As you cannot get a single bearing shell then it may be a good idea to replace all the big ends . On the back of the shell will be the size of the bearing in thousands of an inch so if it says .002" then you need shells that are that much over size. Take a shell into a spares department and just ask for bearings that match that shell.
if you are only replacing piston big end shells , this can be done on most vehicles with sump removed , but if your bigend main bearings need to be relaced , take out the engine.which i would suggest any how , bodging doesn't always work out cheap.
CYLINDER HEAD BOATS TORQUE FIRST PASS 29.5 FT LBS SECOND PASS 44 FT LBS.THEN TIGHTEN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES FOR MAIN BEARINGS 15 FT LBS TIGHTEN EACH BOAT ADDITIONAL 70 DEGREES ROD BEARINGS 15 FT LB TIGHTEN ADDITIONAL 70 DEGREES. CRANKSHAFT DAMPER BOLTS 130 FT LBS.
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