How can I install rod bearing caps? - 2016 Hyundai Elantra GT

This is for 2008 TBSS 6.0L LS torque specs. should be the same. Hope this helps!
Connecting Rod Bolts - First Pass
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Connecting Rod Bolts - Final Pass
85 degrees

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Installation Pass to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed
330 N·m
240 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - First Pass - Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Final Pass
140 degrees

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M8 Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Bolts - First Pass in Sequence
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Bolts - Final Pass in Sequence
80 degrees

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Studs - First Pass in Sequence
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Studs - Final Pass in Sequence
51 degrees

Cylinder Head M8 Bolts - in Sequence
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Cylinder Head M11 Bolts - First Pass in Sequence
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Cylinder Head M11 Bolts - Second Pass in Sequence
90 degrees

Cylinder Head M11 Bolts - Final Pass in Sequence
70 degrees

Cylinder Head Coolant Plug
20 N·m
15 lb ft

remove the sump
undo the cap bolts
remove the cap
slipper bearing then slips out
push the rod up the cylinder enough to remove the slipper bearing the same way as you did for the cap
make sure that you install the slipper bearings correctly with the tab fitting into the small recess in the rod and cap
use plenty of oil on the crank pin and bearings
pull the rod back onto the crank pin
fit the cap and bolts
tension to correct tension
make sure that you can turn the crank shaft easily

NOTE ---if the crankshaft will not turn easily but appears bound up
loosen of the cap and check the bearing shell sizes are the same as the ones you replaced , you put the cap back on the right way
(Back to front will jam on the shaft) refit the sump

check that you kept the caps and rods as units as any one cap will not fit any other rod. The same goes for the main bearings. Have you got the correct size bearings for the crank shaft. Have you placed the rods in the cylinder correctly. have you placed the bearing slippers in the cap and rod correctly

The Main Bearing Cap TorqueTo install:

1. When reassembling, clean the bearing caps and journals in the block thoroughly. Coat the bearings with a liberal application of clean motor oil.

Fig. Fig. 3: Always torque the bearing caps to specification

Fig. Fig. 4: Main bearing cap bolt tightening sequence on 3E and 3E-E engines

1. Fit the upper bearings halves into the block and position the lower bearing halves in the bearing caps.
2. Place the crankshaft into the engine block, making sure it fits exactly into its mounts.
3. Install the upper thrust washers on the center main bearing with the oil grooves facing outward.
4. Install the main bearing caps and the lower thrust washers in the proper sequence. Make sure the arrows on the caps point towards the front (pulley end) of the motor.
5. Tighten the cap bolts to specification in three passes. On 3E and 3E-E engines, use the correct sequence.
6. Double check the end-play of the crankshaft by repeating the procedure described earlier.
7. Turn the crankshaft through one or two full clockwise rotations, making sure that it turns smoothly and evenly with no binding.
8. Attach the piston rods, following procedures given earlier in this section. Remember that the rod caps must be reinstalled in their original positions.
9. Install a new rear main oil seal into the retainer and install the retainer onto the block. Tighten the bolts to specification.
10. Install the rear end plate on the engine.
11. Install either the driveplate (automatic) or the flywheel (manual), observing the matchmarks made during removal.
12. If equipped with a manual transaxle, reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate.
13. Install the oil pump.
14. Install the oil strainer and oil pan, using new gaskets.
15. Rotate the engine into its upright position and continue reassembly of the timing belt, idler pulley and covers.
16. Reinstall the engine in the car, following procedures outlined earlier in this section.

42 Foot pounds (Final torque)

2 Different size engines for that year. If you have the 2.2 the main bearing caps are 70 ft/lbs (final torque) & the rod bearing caps are 38 ft/lbs (final torque). If you have the 4.3, the main bearing caps are 77 ft/lbs (final torque) & the rod bearing caps are 45 ft/lbs (final torque). I hope this helps and good luck.

Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. 2.3L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
4. Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
5. Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
6. Remove the piston assemblies. NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
   
7. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
9. Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps. NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
   
10. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
11. Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
12. Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
13. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
14. Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
    
16. Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
17. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
18. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
    
19. Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
20. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
21. Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
22. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.

Crank Main caps Tightening Torque

For the 12 Pointed Head Bearing Cap Sub-Assembly Bolts
Start from center bolts and tighten in a clockwise rotation working out
Step 1 all bolts 22 Nm or 16 ft lb
Step 2 all bolts 44 Nm or 32 ft lb
Step 3 all bolts 45 degrees additional clockwise rotation using an angle indicator.
Step 4 all bolts 45 degrees additional clockwise rotation using an angle indicator.

Hexagon Head Bearing Cap Sub-Assembly Bolts
1ZZ-FE Engine 18.5 Nm (14 ft.lb)
2ZZ-GE Engine 18 Nm (13 ft.lb)

Connecting rod:
1. Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the connecting rod cap bolts.
2. Install and alternately tighten the 2 connecting rod cap bolts in several passes. Torque: 1ZZ-FE: 20 Nm (204 kgf-cm, 15 ft. lbs.) 2ZZ-GE: 30 Nm (306 kgf-cm, 22 ft. lbs.) If any of the connecting rod cap bolts does not meet the torque specification, replace the connecting rod cap bolts.
3. Retighten the cap bolts by 90° more
4. Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.

1. Check the connecting rod alignment If either the bend or the twist exceeds the specified limit,the connecting rod must be replaced. Bend per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.15 (0.0059) Twist per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.20 (0.0078)

2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance. Use a feeler gauge to measure the thrust clearance at the large end of the connecting rod If the clearance exceeds the specified limit, the connecting rod must be replaced. Standard: 0.16 mm - 0.35 mm (0.0063 inch - 0.0138 inch) Limit: 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch)

3. Measure the oil clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.

1. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and the rod caps (12). Arrange the removed rod caps in the cylinder number order.
2. Clean the rod bearings and the crankshaft pins.
1. Carefully check the rod bearings. If even one bearing is found to be damaged or badly worn, the entire bearing assembly must be replaced as a set. Reinstall the bearings in their original positions. Apply plastigage to the crank pin.
2. Reinstall the rod caps (12) to their original positions. Tighten the rod cap nuts. Torque: 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) Note: Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate.
3. Remove the rod caps.
1. Measure the width of the plastigage and determine the oil clearance. If the oil clearance exceeds the limit, replace the rod bearing as a set. Standard: 0.019 mm - 0.043 mm (0.0007 inch - 0.0017 inch) Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)
2. Clean the plastigage from the bearings and the crankshaft pins.

2002 2.0L Duratech.

Don't have 2004 2.3L

• NOTE: Use new connecting rod bearing cap bolts.
  NOTE: Do not fully tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts at this stage.
  Install the bearing caps.

• Rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and insert pistons 2 and 3.

• Position the corresponding bearing shells, clean and free of oil, into the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap.

• Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.

1. NOTE: The crankshaft must rotate freely, if necessary check and adjust the bearing clearances.
   Tighten the main bearing and connecting rod bearing bolts.
   1. Tighten the main bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 25 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 60 degrees.
   1. Tighten the connecting rod bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 35 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 90 degrees.

Lots of clanking when first started sounds like a worn rod bearing. Check the engine compartment and rev engine to listen for knocking. It will get progressively worse as time goes by. Nothing to do except buy/install new crankshaft kit from autozone, about $300+.

In the mean time, just change oil and put in some oil additive to lessen the knocking. High speeds will accelerate the wear of the rod bearing. The rod bearing is installed inside of the piston rod. This bearing goes around the crankshaft. It has very tight tolerances down to the thousands of an inch. When it gets worn, metal will flake off of the soft bearing material and contaminate your oil more. If you catch it early enough, you can replace the bearing without too much trouble. Here is what you need to do.

Find the bad bearing. If you hear the knocking with the engine on and under the hood, disconnect a sparkplug. If the knocking goes away, that is the bad bearing. Do this disconnecting/reconnecting until you identify the bad bearings. Now disconnect battery. Next loosen drive belt- done from steering pump. Loosen 2-13mm bolts on back, one on top and one on bracket on bottom. On bottom right-hand side of pump will be a long adjusting bolt. Loosen turn this bolt counter clockwise to loosen drive belt. Now jack vehicle from the frame, vehicle will raise but tires will remain on ground. keep going as high as your jack will go. Install jack stands on frame. This extends your suspension and keep body raised. Drain oil, remove steering damper. It's the shock absorber looking thing connected to your tie rods/center link. The easiest way to remove the oil pan is to get a 3/8 inch socket adapter for a cordless drill. The bolts will come out in a hurry if you do this. Keep track of where the double sided bolts are, they secure the fuel line brackets. After all are removed, wiggle, tug, and pull pan out. Now you will see the large main caps and the rod caps. The mains are bolted to the block and the rods will rotate up and down with the spinning of the crankshaft. Spin the crankshaft to see. Each bearing cap needs to be marked. Use a center punch and hammer to mark from front to rear. 1 mark for rod cap 1 and so forth. You should end up with 6 marks on rod cap #6. Do the marking on the front side of the cap so you know how it fits back. Remove the rod caps that corresponded to the bad bearing identified earlier. Remove nut on cap. Wiggle cap back and forth until it comes loose. It will eventually come out. Inside the cap, you will see the bearing. It is basically a liner for the cap that rides on the crankshaft. there is one on the top of the rod too. Remove it by pushing rod up into cylinder and pulling it out with your hand. Ensure you remember the orientation of the bearings. One side has a notch, the other has a key that fits into a hole on the rod. Now you have the bearing in hand, check for scoring, or wearing on the face. Check the web for a nice color picture. Feel the crankshaft bearing area with your finger nail. It should be smooth and not ridged. Purchase some plastigage along with a standard .000 bearing. Clean rod surface, install new bearing and plastigage. Tighten to torque. Remove cap and measure plastigage for your oil clearance. Now you can purchase the correct bearing to match your oil clearance. If you don't have a repair manual, now's a good time to get it. It has bearing tolerances for you to get the correct bearing. After you have the correct bearings, use oil additive to grease up the new bearing/crank surfaces. Put everything back together, put some quality magnets inside of your oil pan near the drain hole and cross your fingers.