02 mountaineer replace back pads do i bleed ONLY rear lines? 4.0 v6

4.0L , USA car?
Bank 1 on any V6 is the bank with cylinder #1
S2 is rear of cat bank 1. aka. down stream 02 and is only a smog sensor,(cat test) does not run engine fuel mixtures at all
S1 is for fuel trim. ok?
hood up
facing engine
#1 bank is left.bank.
f123 r
f456r to rear of car.
The firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6

What is happening - the proportion valve / combination valve is stopping you from bleeding the rear brakes.
check out this video to point you in the right direction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF3KSkPCTBM

No believe it or not your next step is to bleed it again, a bad booster usually results in a hard pedal. Start by gravity bleeding open all 4 bleeders one at a time when one begins to drip move to the next one when you have all 4 dripping constantly tighten the bleeders then bleed again starting right rear, left rear, right front left front. I hope this helps. Take care.

Try bleeding some brake fluid on that side. You may have a blockage. Also check if the rotor is in good condition, it may be warped. Good luck!

First, there is NO Pumping of the brake pedal
involved in bleeding brakes

I think your smart enough to know you
need to replace both rear brake hoses,
before you proceed with the bleeding

I would bleed the rears too especially if the brake fluid reservoir drained empty. Also you may need to drive the vehicle to seat the brake pads. Check and see how the pedal feels initially before you road test to make sure you don't need to pump the brakes in order to stop. if you do then re bleed all four wheels.If you don't have to pump the pedal and it just feels spongy then try going around the block a few times and see if the pedal stiffens up after the pads have seated.

Issue with your master line... Check for Rusty and Pinch Line along the Frame at the Back Check Rubber Line Joint for leaking Oil ..Check Level Gauge into Brake Container for bad connection

did you bleed the air out of the master cylinder before you instaled it. thats the only way to get the air out of it.if not then you have to pull it out and bleed everything

the caliper is siezes up- uneven wear in pads is a 100% tell tale sign- replace it with a new one and your good to go!

you don't need to bleed front brakes if you only did rotors and pads. If you look at the master cylindar, there are 4 lines coming off of it, one for each brake. Only bleed what you replaced.


Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matthew_d24b835e574ef6ca